Patek Philippe fake is updating one of its most iconic formal watches, Calatrava, whose bezel is decorated with a guilloche “Paris nail” pattern.
This polished diamond pattern composed of small pyramid tips first appeared on Calatrava’s bezel in 1934, Ref. 96D (D stands for decoration). Since then, it has been reinterpreted into multiple versions. The most successful model with this decorative element is probably the Reference 3919, launched in 1985 and produced for 20 years: it is equipped with a manual winding 215 PS movement, a small second at 6 o’clock, black lacquered Roman numerals and White dial with straight lugs.
The Calatrava “Clous de Paris” now has an obvious modern appearance, with a diameter of 39 mm, a dial with three-dimensional hour markers and a new hand-wound Patek Philippe movement specially developed for this model.
Two versions are proposed. Reference 6119R-001 combines a rose gold case and a silver grained dial, as well as rose gold applied hour-markers and hands.
The platinum model Reference 6119G-001 features a charcoal gray dial, interrupted by a vertical satin finish and a snail-shaped small seconds counter. The applied hour markers and hands are made of the same metal as the case.
The golden prince-style hour and minute hands have three facets instead of two. Thanks to the railway track minute scale on the periphery of the dial, it is easy to read. The slender “cheveu”-style seconds hand rotates on an auxiliary subdial at 6 o’clock, which is divided into four quarters.
The round bezel is decorated with guilloche studs, a slightly wider chamfered profile and a slender polished rounded frame-shaped sapphire crystal mirror.
The shape of the strap ears has also been redesigned. They are now not straight, but curved, the transition from the case to the strap is smoother and makes the wrist more comfortable.
The new hand-wound Patek Philippe movement with a power reserve of 65 hours is specially designed for this model. Its development was based on the desire for a manual winding movement with a diameter greater than 215 PS.
In fact, the inner diameter of the new 30-255 PS movement is 30.4 mm (total diameter of 31 mm), while the 215 PS is 21.5 mm (total diameter of 21.9 mm), and the height remains unchanged at 2.55 mm, which makes it It is possible to limit the total thickness of the luxury replica watches (the back of the crystal) to 8.08 mm.
The new 30-255 PS movement is particularly robust, providing a power reserve of 65 hours or nearly three days. The result is achieved by using two main barrels arranged in parallel. Unlike series barrels to extend the power reserve, parallel barrels increase the torque of the movement by increasing the torque of two barrels.
Despite the slim structure, this solution supports the maximum force and allows the deployment of a balance with twice the moment of inertia of 10 mg/cm2. The higher moment of inertia improves rate stability and simplifies the precise adjustment of a movement that beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,000 vibrations per hour), with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds in 24 hours.
The stop-second function, which stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled, can set the time with one second accuracy. When the crown is pushed back to its original position, the mechanism activates the balance wheel to make it move again.
Through the sapphire crystal caseback, you can see that the 30-255 PS movement has six bridges-one for each wheel or function-with Geneva stripes and chamfered and polished edges.