Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

Another complication that copy Patek Philippe is also well known for is the annual calendar. 1996 was an extraordinary year for Patek Philippe. It brought all its watchmaking capabilities under one roof at Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva, where Philippe Stern launched the famous annual calendar. He is undoubtedly proud that Patek Philippe introduced the perpetual calendar to the world more than 70 years ago. But he also hopes his tenure at Patek Philippe will be marked by true innovation.

Before we start to understand the history of the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar, let us first define what a perpetual calendar is. Ever wonder where our calendar system came from? All thanks to a Pope named Gregory XIII, who formulated the Gregorian calendar in 1582, correcting errors in the Julian calendar. The problem is essentially this: the calendar year is divided into 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and 30 or 31 days a month, and February has 28 days, for a total of 365 days, which is actually shorter than the solar year, which is how the earth orbits The time it takes the sun to make one revolution – 365 days, 5 hours, 48 ​​minutes and 46 seconds to be exact. To make up for this, Pope Gregory XIII adds the date of February 29 every four years. But this in turn causes a slight overage, so every 100 years, while divisible by four, leap days are ignored. Every 400 years, it is put back in its place.

Still here with me? OK So to set up a perpetual calendar mechanism to keep track of the day, the day, the 30/31 day cycle of the compensating month, to know when February has 28 days and to know when to have 29 days, it would be a behavioral extreme case of clockwork Bad thing, right? Well, it just so happened that an English watchmaker named Thomas March did just that in 1762. In 2016, that watch was auctioned off and acquired by Patek Philippe, the most famous watch brand on the planet. This is very appropriate, because in the history of modern watchmaking, there is no brand more synergistic than a perpetual calendar watch. Patek Philippe was the first to create a perpetual calendar in 1925, the retrograde perpetual calendar in 1937 and the series perpetual calendar in 1941 with the legendary Ref. 1526. in 1944 as Ref. 1591 and in 1951 with Ref. 2497. It was also the first from 1962 with the iconic Ref. 3448; another Swiss watchmaker took a full 16 years to achieve this achievement. In addition, Patek Philippe was the first to create a perpetual calendar chronograph in 1941. It was also the first to start in 1962 with the iconic Ref. 3448; it took another Swiss watchmaker a full 16 years to achieve this achievement. In addition, Patek Philippe was the first to create a perpetual calendar chronograph in 1941. It was also the first to start in 1962 with the iconic Ref. 3448; it took another Swiss watchmaker a full 16 years to achieve this achievement. In addition, Patek Philippe was the first to create a perpetual calendar chronograph in 1941.

The interesting thing about creating the almanac is that it was seen as a challenge in 1991, or more specifically, the subject of a diploma at the Geneva School of Engineering. The idea was to create a new calendar system that eliminated the fragile racks, cams and jumper springs of the perpetual calendar, and largely replaced them with gears. The resulting system, which Patek Philippe patented, was at the heart of its innovation the 24-hour drive wheel. This has two “fingers” at an angle to each other. Fingers advance the date once a day. The second finger is used for the transition from the 30th day to the 1st of the next month, allowing you to skip the 31st. In this case, the full conversion took four hours to complete. Interestingly, in designing Ref. 5326, Patek Philippe was very clear that in a multi-time zone watch with a date function, a long transition period is unacceptable. More on that later. In any case, the main simplification represented by the almanac is that it no longer needs to predict the 48-month leap year cycle or add a day to February when a leap year occurs, saving a lot of mechanical costs.

Ref. was launched in 1996. The 5035 Calendar was an instant hit for under $20,000. In addition to the use of luminous hands, the sporty case appeals particularly to younger audiences. It was an all-around success for Patek Philippe. On the 10th anniversary of the 2006 calendar, the complication was placed in two of the watches most relevant today. The first is a reference. When the 5396 was introduced in 2006, it represented the first Calatrava annual calendar. The second is a reference. 5960, an excellent automatic vertical clutch chronograph with an annual calendar, although one of the side tables is a wonderful Nautilus annual calendar reference. 5726.

This new Calatrava brings together two famous complications, giving Patek Philippe the opportunity to enhance its performance. As mentioned earlier, ref. The 5326 is the second watch to integrate the local time setting function into the crown, the first being the 2021 Aquanaut Luce Travel Time.

Says Thierry Stern: “With this new Calatrava Annual Calendar Travel Time beautifully decorated with Paris studs, I didn’t want to add pushers around the case that would interrupt this special decoration.” Instead, the crown has three positions For winding, setting local time and semi-quick setting date/calendar information, as well as setting time for local and local time sync, with a hacking feature. To adjust to a new time zone, all you have to do is move the crown to the neutral position and turn the hour hand backwards or forwards. In this position, the seconds hand continues uninterrupted, allowing you to set the local time without affecting the overall accuracy of the watch.

refer to. The 5326 also makes up for an important factor. For example, let’s say you’re flying from Singapore to New York. When you arrive at JFK, you turn your watch back 12 hours. However, during the flight, you may have crossed the midnight threshold, which means that you arrive on a date and date that is actually earlier than what is shown on your watch face. But fear not, because when you turn the hour hand in the opposite direction past the midnight threshold, the date and week display (and the affected month) also change back to the previous day.

This isn’t the only innovation Ref represents. 5326. One of the beauties of Patek Philippe is that it keeps improving its watches. In the first example of the almanac, the transition from the 30th to the 1st takes four hours to complete. In newer versions, this conversion takes 90 minutes.

The question is of course the question, what if you try to change your local time during this transition? Inconsistencies between date and calendar information may occur. correct? Patek Philippe recognized this with its usual thoroughness and set out to create a mechanism that would make date transitions five times faster. It now takes about 18 minutes. This comes down to a cam system with partial teeth attached to the hour wheel. The 24 hour wheel now completes its rotation in four distinct phases – 180 for 3 hours (close to midnight), 9 hours at rest, then another 3 hours at 180 degrees (near noon), and then 9 hours at rest.

This improves the coordination of the calendar switching phase with local time, Patek explained. All in all, the 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H movement has a total of eight new patents. The first is the three crown positions for time setting. The system has a lever that actually closes “dead” wheels that are not performing any function, to save energy. The second is the forward and backward setting function of the annual calendar, thanks to the teeth and springs on the month lever. This allows the watch to transition from the 30th to the 1st and back from the 1st to the 30th without getting the dates out of sync. The third is a linear time zone spring that increases the torque between the local time hour wheel and the local time hour wheel. The fourth and fifth are used for two pivotable retaining cleats that hold the date plate in place without the use of a center screw. The sixth is an inertia increment, which prevents inadvertent misalignment of the time display when correcting time zones. The seventh item concerns the braking mechanism for the date disc when corrections are made. The eighth is a flexible corrector. The flexibility of these leaf springs means you can eliminate the risk of material failure when correcting within an unfavorable time window. Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s technical director, said: “We realized that people really don’t want to read instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being manipulated by mistake.” The sixth is inertia increase This prevents inadvertent misalignment of the time display when correcting the time zone. The seventh item concerns the braking mechanism for the date disc when corrections are made. The eighth is a flexible corrector. The flexibility of these leaf springs means you can eliminate the risk of material failure when correcting within an unfavorable time window. Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s technical director, said: “We realized that people really don’t want to read instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being manipulated by mistake.” The sixth is inertia increase This prevents inadvertent misalignment of the time display when correcting the time zone. The seventh item concerns the braking mechanism for the date disc when corrections are made. The eighth is a flexible corrector. The flexibility of these leaf springs means you can eliminate the risk of material failure when correcting within an unfavorable time window. Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s technical director, said: “We realized that people really don’t want to read instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being manipulated by mistake.” Brake mechanism for the date disc when correcting. The eighth is a flexible corrector. The flexibility of these leaf springs means you can eliminate the risk of material failure when correcting within an unfavorable time window. Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s technical director, said: “We realized that people really don’t want to read instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being manipulated by mistake.” Brake mechanism for the date disc when correcting. The eighth is a flexible corrector. The flexibility of these leaf springs means you can eliminate the risk of material failure when correcting within an unfavorable time window. “We realized that people really don’t want to read instructions anymore,” said Philip Barat, Patek Philippe’s technical director. “So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being manipulated by mistake.” of people don’t want to read the instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch that would block certain functions to prevent them from being operated incorrectly.” “We realized that people really didn’t want to read the instructions anymore. So we had to create a watch A watch that blocks certain functions to prevent them from being operated incorrectly.”

All in all, the design and technological innovation that Ref. stands for. The 5326 makes it one of the most important timepieces in recent memory. best copy watches

Patek Philippe Ref. The 5470P-001 1/10-Second Monopusher Chronograph is a fast-paced first

A high-tempo beast in classic clothing.

For better or worse, Patek Philippe copy has become synonymous with the Nautilus for many aficionados – a stainless steel sports watch that was launched in 1976 and has been in the spotlight for a long time. the company isn’t content to be considered merely a fashion steel bracelet watch The maker of Philippe, which it released at the show, is a reminder that Patek Philippe isn’t a Patek Philippe because a watch has become an Instagram darling.

The two pillars of Patek Philippe watchmaking have always been quality of finishing and impeccable execution in the manufacture of complicated watches, and its history is full of examples of watches that combine the two, including the Henry Graves Super Complications, As well as the Chime, a master watch of recent years (aesthetically polarizing, but extremely innovative in its mechanics).

Today, Patek Philippe has just released a new chronograph that is extremely technically sophisticated, while further underscoring that Patek Philippe complications are often the benchmark in the watch industry. Patek Philippe Ref. The 5470P-001 1/10-Second Monopusher Chronograph is certainly not the first high-beat chronograph – 1/10-second chronographs have been around since the introduction of Zenith El Primero in 1969. But if it’s waiting for Patek Philippe to release a high-beat chronograph, the wait is worth it – the Ref. 54070P-001 1/10th is unlike any other high-beat chronograph.

At first glance, this looks like an absolutely classic platinum double-record chronograph (with a small diamond between the lugs at six o’clock, like all platinum Patek Philippe watches). The red central hand, which at first glance is a chronograph second hand, looks a little unusual, especially against the dark blue dial, but otherwise, this could easily be a Patek Philippe chronograph for 1952 and 2022. However, on closer inspection, you notice that there are actually two chrono center hands with “1/10 of a second” written in different small letters on the dial – then the outer elapsed seconds scale is actually two scales, one indicating Elapsed seconds (and minutes, when read from the minute hand) and an external hand with 12 red hour markers designed to allow you to read 1/10 second increments from the red central chronograph hand. The red chronograph hand circles the dial every 12 seconds.

The 1/10 second action is provided by the new movement. This is the calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10 and it takes as its starting point the split-seconds chronograph movement CH 29-535, which debuted in 2009, you can see the split-second movement in the superposition of the new movement Descent 1/10th of a second chronograph hand and chronograph second hand when the chronograph is reset to zero. Starting with the escapement and oscillator, the entire mechanism was rebuilt to fit the 1/10th of a second system.

The oscillating system is Patek Philippe’s patented Oscillomax system, first introduced in 2011 in an Advanced Research Project watch – the Patek Philippe Advanced Research Ref. 5550P. The Oscillomax system consists of a silicon hairspring, a silicon escape wheel with a special tooth profile and, most strikingly, the unusual GyromaxSi balance. The GyromaxSi balance is clearly and significantly different from other annular balances made of Glucydur – it is made of silicon (hence the name “Si”) and has a golden inertial weight, with a butterfly-shaped profile instantly marking CH 29-535 PS Caliber 1/10 as a completely different animal from its predecessor. Despite its very unusual configuration, it still has Patek Philippe’s adjustable weight

Silicon is often the solution to some of the problems posed by the snap escapement – cal. The CH 29-535 PS rattrapante has a frequency of 28,800 vph, but increasing to 36,000 vph (from 4Hz to 5Hz) you have inertia issues that you don’t have at lower frequencies, which is where the reduction in silicon mass comes in (and You also get the added advantage of using paramagnetic materials). copy luxury watches

In the calibre CH 29-535 PS 1/10, the system of the 1/10-second series is driven by the fourth wheel of the movement. The drive wheel is divided into two parts – an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower wheel with rigid spokes. The lower wheel is driven by the fourth wheel, and the upper wheel drives the clutch wheel – a system that helps prevent play between the drive wheel and the clutch. The 12-second rotation of the 1/10-second chronograph hand is thanks to a pinion with micro teeth on the 1/10-second wheel, and I mean micro – the pinion has 136 teeth and is only 1.46 mm in diameter, with The tooth height is 30 microns.

There are basically two separate chronograph mechanisms – one for the tenths of a second and the other for the standard central seconds counter and instantaneous jumping minutes counter. The entire 1/10 second mechanism is mounted on the clutch lever, and both the base system and the 1/10 system are traditional lateral clutch chronographs.

The 1/10 second system consists of an anti-backlash wheel (driven by the fourth wheel) with its rigid lower and flexible upper wheels. When the chronograph is engaged, the upper anti-backlash wheel is used to stabilize the drive wheel (below, yellow) to prevent the 1/10 second pinion (and hands) from getting stuck. The reason Patek Philippe didn’t use anti-backlash split teeth on the 1/10s pinion (the flexible gear teeth split from the center, like a small spring) is because the teeth on the pinion are too small.

Since the 1/10-second clutch lever carries the entire 1/10-second system, it is significantly heavier than a traditional lateral clutch timing lever. Plus the 1/10th pinion has very small teeth, which means the 1/10th clutch wheel can disengage from the 1/10th pinion if there is vibration. Patek Philippe patented a new anti-shock system with two “pendulum” anti-shock bars. They’re configured in such a way that no matter which direction the shock is coming from – top or bottom, left or right – the clutch wheel actually presses more firmly against the 1/10th of a second pinion. An analogy might be the caseback of a waterproof watch (or submarine hatch, for that matter), which is designed so that the more water pressure increases, the tighter the seal.

Because the 1/10-second mechanism completely follows the movement of the standard chronograph’s lower clutch system, you’ll need some protection as well. cheap Patek Philippe does this by adding a shock hook spring that hooks into a matching hook below the circular plate on top of the column wheel when the chronograph is running. When the chronograph is closed, the hook lifts from the safety hook under the column wheel top plate and the lever can move freely.

For this movement, you need to do everything in terms of technical improvements, and another adjustment Patek Philippe has made to the mainspring barrel. Both the length of the mainspring and the number of springs (two fundamental factors that determine the power reserve) are increased by reducing the diameter of the central arbor that carries the innermost spring coil. This particular point has been a common source of breakage in the past, and to hedge against any risk of excessive tension, Patek Philippe has also modified the sliding reins on the outer bezel of the mainspring and strengthened the mainspring’s attachment point (made of Nivaflex) in the heart on the axis.

The last element in terms of power management is the 1/10 second hand. Patek Philippe decided not to use tempered steel, opting instead for hands made of Silinvar (silicon with an oxide coating). The inertia of the Silinvar pointer is 3.35 times lower than that of the steel pointer, which means less energy is required to run the pointer and reset it to zero. However, this brings up two additional problems. The first is that the silicon is too brittle to press the hand against its friction fit post, and the second is that the regular red paint won’t stick to the hand. Patek Philippe solved these problems by patenting a primer formulation that allowed them to dye their hands red, and a second process of attaching a hollow brass tube to the center of the hand to hold it in place.

The result of all this is that you have a 1/10-second movement with central chronograph seconds and 1/10-second hands, with an extremely precise oscillation system and a highly optimized drive system. The new CH 29-535 PS 1/10 is actually slightly 0.15mm thinner than the rattrapante version – the rattrapante version is 7.1mm thick, while the CH 29-535 PS 1/10 is 6.96mm thick. By the way, movement development is under the supervision of Patek Philippe R&D head Philip Barratt and watch research head Anthony Crutley, and as far as I’m concerned, the entire watch enthusiast community should send them a big bottle of champagne And a dozen roses, because I can’t remember the last time I saw a movement with so many incredible unconventional and imaginative technical solutions.

If you compare the caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10 with the El Primero caliber 3600, you will see that the biggest difference is the drive and coupling system. Zenith Chronomaster Sport 3600 movement, the central 1/10 second hand rotates slightly faster than the CH 29-535 PS 1/10, making one revolution every ten seconds. However, the system in the Caliber 3600 is driven by the escape wheel, not the fourth wheel. Generally, you don’t want to drive anything from the escape wheel because the torque there is already low, but Zenith has found a way to make it work. The Patek Philippe system uses first gear on the train, so the energy available is higher, the Patek Philippe system is optimized in a number of unique ways (I mean unique, there are 31 patents related to the movement in it) Seven is brand new) represents an entirely new approach to building high-frequency chronographs – while retaining the common characteristics of nearly all classic transverse clutch chronographs,

You’d think it was a limited edition, but it would go into the regular series, although I don’t think the number of units produced each year would be high — and the price is “on request,” which usually doesn’t account for, to put it mildly, high volume output. It’s a beautifully traditional design with some of the most intricate and refined watchmaking I’ve seen in a high-beat chronograph – further proof that if you want a real deal for your hard-earned pennies Watch content, it’s still hard to beat Patek Philippe.

Patek Philippe reference. 5470P-001 1/10 Monopusher Chronograph: Case, 950 Platinum, 41mm x 13.68mm, 30m water resistance, sapphire front and back; white top Wesselton interlug diamonds at 6:00. Movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS 1/10, 1/10 second chronograph with central second and 1/10 second hand; 29.6 mm x 6.96 mm, 48 hours power reserve with chronograph closed, Running at 36,000 vph. Silinvar silicon balance spring, Pulsomax silicon lever and escape wheel, Gyromax silicon balance, gold inertia weights and adjustable chronograph weights. Patek Philippe Seal, daily rate of change +3/-2 sec. Monopusher chronograph with pusher for start, stop and reset at 2:00. 30 minutes counter at 3:00; small seconds at 9:00.

What we can expect from the successor to the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

Let’s call it 6711 for now… that’s what we’d like to see.

It all started with rumors in January 2021. We’ve heard that Patek Philippe is about to discontinue its most iconic sports watch, the chronograph Nautilus 5711 (coincidentally, it’s one of the most sought after on the used market). The rumors are true, as Thierry Stern announced the discontinuation of the blue dial 5711/1A-001 model introduced in 2006. But then, two things happened. First, the brand released its one-year-old farewell edition, the olive green Nautilus 5711. Of course, there’s also the Tiffany Blue 5711, only 170 of which will be produced. Now, we know that the Nautilus 5711 is definitely gone and discontinued. This is not the end of the story for the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Will there be watches to keep the legend alive…? We believe so, and that’s what we’d like to see in the new Patek Philippe Nautilus – let’s call it the 6711 for now.

Patek Philippe and its president, Thierry Stern, have recently communicated mainly through interviews with the Neue Zurich Zeitung or the New York Times. First, in February 2021, Mr. Stern announced the cessation of production of the classic blue dial Nautilus 5711/1A-001, which was launched in 2006 as a 30th anniversary model, following in the footsteps of the first Nautilus , ref. 3700. In the interview, Stern gave multiple reasons for the discontinuation of the blue 5711, including that he didn’t want one model to suddenly occupy 50% or more of our collection and dominate Patek Philippe’s image. ” and then added that “it’s not enough to make the most beautiful watches in the world.” I also have to make sure they hold their value, and rarity is one of the keys to that. This is important for customers who invest in Patek Philippe. “

In the same interview, Mr Stern also said the brand was planning to release “little surprises”. So there will be a farewell series of 5711, which will be a little different. ” And this surprise is reflected in the shape of the olive green dial Nautilus 5711/1A-014, which was produced for less than a year from April 2021 to early 2022.

Watch production is small and demand is high, a situation that only increases the popularity of the Nautilus (all colors), sending prices skyrocketing on the used market. Stern was aware of the situation, explaining before the launch that “it’s going to be another nightmare on the demand side.” But the worse situation has yet to be revealed. That’s the shape of the Tiffany Blue 5711, a watch created in collaboration with the New York retailer and jeweler to celebrate its 170th anniversary and limited to 170 pieces. We expect watches to be auction spoilers, but certainly not in the millions. Again, Thierry Stern is fully aware of the problems associated with such a launch, telling The New York Times: “I Not sure it’s a gift for them. It could be a big deal. They probably don’t realize how difficult it is to select customers.”

The situation regarding the Patek Philippe icon has recently been clarified. In fact, the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 no longer exists. Simply put, this watch simply doesn’t exist because all possible references have been removed from the brand’s website. No more blue versions, no more green models or the rose gold 5711R, and long gone are the white dial versions.

A watch that really needs to be replaced…
Some say that the Tiffany blue and olive green versions of the Nautilus are the last of their kind…and, they don’t mean the last of 5711 (which is now known to be a reality), but the last of time-and-date Patek Philippe parrots screw. period! Well, let’s clarify the situation a little bit. In the same interview with the New York Times by Mr. Stern, when he announced the end of the Blue 5711 and the release of the Green model, the Patek Philippe president also said “We have a plan. Alternative reference. The 5711 will be quite important. It will be more important than the reference. Better. 5711. But I’m not going to say what metal today, or if it’s steel. It would be another matter, very close and logical.”

Not only did the brand’s president announce that there would be a replacement, but we inevitably put the question on the MONOCHROME table. We are well aware that Patek Philippe simply cannot kill the classic time and date Nautilus. Launched in 1976, this watch represents an important part of the brand’s modern history. It was this watch that allowed Patek Philippe to enter new markets and appeal to a different audience. This is the brand’s entry into modernity and casual sports watches. Since then, it has become a true icon of watchmaking. If not for business reasons, the Nautilus 5711 must be replaced for legacy reasons. As Stern said, this watch is a difficult product. “Stopping Nautilus was an important decision,” he said, adding that “there’s a lot of noise around this nautilus. (…) We can’t put a wholesale watches replica on top of the pyramid.” But he also realized that he “will never be able to put a watch on top of the pyramid.” There are not enough watches for everyone on the list.”

With that in mind, discontinuing the Nautilus 5711 was certainly a complicated decision, but it also opened the door to other things. Somewhat different, but some of the same – at least for us, it is likely that the new Nautilus, unveiled at 2022 at the 2022 Geneva Watch Fair, will retain most of the elements that have made the Nautilus successful since 1976. But the biggest problem remains the material.

What we would like to see in (likely) Nautilus 6711
What we’re going to discuss will be an expected mix based on previous statements from the brand president, as well as our own analysis (and aspirations). The inspiration for the evolution of the time and date Nautilus can be seen in Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin, under the new reference 16202ST. In short, AP for its most iconic watch Introduced a new reference that looks 99% identical, only the movement is the real novelty to discuss. In fact, visually, the new AP RO Jumbo is (almost) identical to the previous generation, thus retaining the watch’s iconic look and pleasing long-time owners. Therefore, the value (emotional and financial) of the previous model will be preserved, while the development of mechanics justifies the introduction of new references.

We expect the Patek Philippe replacement for the Nautilus 5711 (and possibly the Nautilus 6711) will go in the same direction, the only difference being that we think the PP will be a bit bolder and will create a deeper evolution. Visually, the new Nautilus time and date must be consistent with previous generations. Released in 2006, the 5711 was only a slight update to the design of the original 1976 reference 3700—the most obvious difference being the circular hinge on the side of the case. Mechanically, however, the introduction of the Caliber 324 made a huge difference compared to the older JLC-based movements, and also introduced a central seconds hand. But between 1976 and 2006, production technology and movement design changed dramatically. However, between 2006 and 2022, this was not the case.

Back to possible Nautilus 6711. What we expected was a watch that was only slightly different from the 5711, at least in terms of design. The shape and proportions of the recently discontinued models are nearly perfect, and there’s no reason to drastically change them. We can probably count on tenths of a millimeter here and there, but overall the likely 6711 will be a watch that doesn’t change much. At least, that’s what we’d like to see.

Now comes the matter of materials, which is at the center of most discussions. In fact, Mr Stern himself was behind the topic following his statement. Is the new Nautilus only available in precious metals? Will we see a new titanium case that is visually close to the steel version, while offering more comfort and resistance? This is our main question about replacing the Nautilus 5711. We somehow wish it was still steel, but titanium is an amazing option too. But this is not a Patek Philippe tradition, and white gold watches are also an alternative that must be considered.

Now, what we want to see. First of all, as you can see in the illustrations we created (they’re certainly not meant to be accurate, but more of a basis for discussion), we wanted to see a gradient blue dial that would add some fun to the watch. We know that Patek Philippe is very good at this gradient dial, even on the Nautilus – think the Annual Calendar 5726. We also wanted to keep the frame date window of the olive green model. Regarding the habilage, no changes are needed since the case is already water resistant to 120m, but we wanted to keep the low profile around 8mm. What can be added to the package is the evolution of the bracelet, possibly with fine-tuning (or comfort extensions) on the clasp, and an interchangeable system that offers alternative straps.

The main evolution we expect to see when replacing the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 has to do with the movement. The last version of the 5711 was equipped with an in-house Calibre 26-330 SC (replacing the 324 in 2019), equipped with a stop-seconds function. This movement is already well equipped with a Gyromax balance wheel and a Spiromax balance spring (made of Silinvar, a silicon-based material). However, this movement is known for its short power reserve, with a brand rating of “minutes. 35 hours – maximum. 45 hours.” In 2022, we can certainly expect better offerings from brands like Patek Philippe, without compromising the thinness of the movement and the watch that houses it. So we would expect a possible Nautilus 6711 to be equipped with a self-winding movement with a power reserve of around 60 to 70 hours (if AP does this with the 7121 movement, certainly Patek Philippe can too).

If Patek Philippe fake is releasing a new version of the Nautilus time and date, one feature of the watch we can tell you ahead of time with absolute certainty…it’s about usability. Don’t expect this possible Nautilus 6711 to be a mass watch. It won’t. period!

Eric Clapton’s Patek Philippe white gold 5970 with “brick” bracelet

One of the best things that have happened in the past two years is my close friendship with a gentleman who asked to remain semi-anonymous for the purpose of this story because he is a collector. skeleton watches

Thanks to the recommendation of Auro Montanari, we were able to have dinner together in Singapore, and it hit it off. My friend is tall, elegant, and likes relaxed Italian tailoring, dressed in an irresistible way for a truly fashionable man. He is not only one of the most important watch collectors in the world, but also sells two of the most iconic watches in the world-Rolex ref. 6062 “Bao Dai”, and Patek Philippe reference steel. 1518 achieved 11 million Swiss francs in 2016-helping Aurel Bacs and Phillips become outstanding auctioneers and high-end antique watch auction houses in the new millennium. To say that the gentleman set a high watermark on the clock when he was by his side is perhaps one of the most understatement in history.

For the purpose of this story, we will call him H. H provides me with advice on watches and tailors from time to time, and I am always happy to receive these suggestions. So I am waiting with a certain curiosity for his arrival at the Patek Philippe Watch Art Exhibition held in Singapore last year. Never disappointing, H showed up with an excellent platinum Patek Philippe reference. 5970 is engraved on a “brick” bracelet with Breguet numbers. Of course, this is interesting because there is no conventional production version of the iconic Lemania 2310, CH27-70 driven perpetual calendar chronograph manufactured by Patek Philippe. In fact, H’s watch used to belong to the person who best introduced Breguet numbers into the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph: Eric Clapton.

In fact, these indexes have become the iconic themes of Clapton’s special customized watches, which fully demonstrate his taste and understanding of Patek Philippe’s history. Because since Patek Philippe first introduced the perpetual calendar chronograph in the references. In 1941 and 1518, there was no perpetual calendar chronograph equipped with Breguet digital dials. The Breguet numbers simply reappear on the reference dial. 5170 chronograph, and later ref. 5370 split-second chronograph. This dial is in the most coveted retro chronograph ref. 130 and reference. 1463, and their minute and second version, reference. 1436 and reference. 1563. The Breguet digital dial is generally regarded by collectors as the most beautiful variant of these models, adding a very considerable premium to the value of the watch.

Therefore, it is absolutely reasonable that the shrewd Clapton would ask for these numbers on his one-of-a-kind watch. We have seen that Breguet numbers are usually limited to the 12 o’clock position in the references. 3970 and reference. 5004 watch, but why?

Well, the case size of these watches is relatively small, only 36.7 mm, so the space on the dial is already limited. Now add the fact that Clapton always orders watches with a speedometer, which is a reference for regular production. 3970 and reference. There is no 5004 watch, and the available space on the dial is greatly reduced. By the way, the tachymeter is a good inclusion because it also quotes references. 1518 and reference. 2499 The first and second generation watches, this is the most collectible Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph ever. However, once you add the Breguet 12 and the speedometer, the available space is only enough for the baton marker, or, in the case of Clapton, the genius application of point markers. discount watches

Why do I think this is a blow of genius? Because if you look at Patek Philippe vintage chronographs, such as ref. 130 and reference. In 1463, you will see that, in general, these dots are combined with Roman marks, especially the index at 12 o’clock in Rome. But this unusual combination of Breguet 12, dot markers and speedometer is the most beautiful dial combination ever made in my opinion.

Once collected by CBE Eric Clapton, a Patek Philippe rose gold watch. 3970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with silver-plated tachymeter panel and applied Breguet numerals at 12 o’clock.

Once collected by CBE Eric Clapton, a Patek Philippe rose gold watch. The 5004 Perpetual Calendar Dual-Second Chronograph with a special black tachymeter panel and Breguet numerals at 12 o’clock; this watch is currently the permanent collection of The Hour Glass.

Hollywood super agent Michael Ovitz (Michael Ovitz) was obviously inspired by Clapton in his special watch. He basically got the same watch, but with a Roman 12 o’clock hour marker, and he added luminous hands and markers, which fell into the minute track due to space constraints.

Patek Philippe must also like these dials, because they use the Eric Clapton configuration for reference. 3970 watches are five rumored works for the 2015 London Watch Art Exhibition. Despite the configuration they chose — rose gold with black dial and Breguet 12, dot markings and white printed speedometer — they had never used a Clapton reference in any previous time. 3970, it is used in the above references. 5004 was sold in 2016 and is now in the permanent collection of Singapore’s The Hour Glass.

When Patek Philippe reference. 5970 was launched in 2004, and Clapton was suddenly provided with an exciting new possibility, which boiled down to a huge difference between the 40mm ref. 5970 and 36.7 mm reference. 3970/5004: Available dialing space. referee. The 5970 offers more dial space than its predecessor, which means that even if the watch is already equipped with a beautiful bold speedometer as standard, Clapton can commission a watch with a full set of Breguet digital time scales. (When I say “full”, I mean 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 11, and 12, because the sub-dials of the watch encroach on the space normally occupied by the 3, 5, 6, 7, and 9 indices.

And that’s exactly what he did-but this time, he ordered more than just a watch, but a set of four references. In the 5970s, all were equipped with Breguet digital dials and matching metal brick bracelets. This was one of the most coveted special order upgrades. It is important to understand that against the historical background of the perpetual calendar chronograph, Patek Philippe has never sold a “brick” bracelet separately, but only as part of a very important customer’s special order. In fact, it is only with reference. 5270 in 2018 and reference. 5204 In 2016, these bracelets entered the regular production lineup. But the point is, in the context of 2006, you must be The Man to order a watch with a brick bracelet; you must be a legend to order a watch with a special dial; you must…well, basically Eric · Eric Clapton ordered four referees. 5970 watches, all with Breguet numbers and “brick” bracelets.

Because I have the opportunity to check and photograph this amazing reference. 5970 Close up, I decided to make this story around it. I was shocked by how amazing it was and the fact that Clapton seemed to really love it. If you look at the ref conditions. 3970s and references. 5004 is sold at Phillips, and those look relatively unworn. Another interesting thing is the Breguet number used in Clapton’s references. The 5970s is completely different from the one used on his ref. 3970 and reference. 5004 watches.

You can clearly see the Breguet number on the reference. The 5970 is taller and thinner, while smaller watches use more compact, thicker, and more square fonts. I can’t think of someone cooler and more suitable than my good friend H to own this masterpiece, and I am very happy to know that it will eventually be completed by him.

Hands-on the Artisans de Genève “Honey Pearl” project, or how to skeletonize the Golden Nautilus 5711

Another demonstration of high-end personalization applied to the golden Nautilus 5711

The personalization of a timepiece can take many shapes, from the classic black coating to the controversial gem fusion (the so-called icing process). But the mission of some seminars is to prove that customization can consider taste and high-end timepieces. And Artisans de Genève is undoubtedly the best in this work. This team of professional craftsmen is famous for deeply transforming the appearance of watches and applying complex hollowing technology to the movement. They only work at the request of customers. Following the initial carbon element pearl project, the workshop today launched a very attractive new gold version-Artisans de Genève “Honey Pearl” project.

We have said in the past that Artisans de Genève is one of the most eye-catching personalized workshop watches when presenting the first carbon fiber bezel “Pearl Project” or the recently co-produced “Cool Hand Brooklyn Skeleton” with Spike Lee. This is more than just changing the dial or adding coatings. The work done here is more in-depth, including modifying the case, adding new materials, and one of their specialties, the modification and hollowing of the movement, and re-decoration by hand in a traditional way. Although the style of these works may be polarized-it actually reflects the choice of the owner of the Popular watch used as the base-but one must recognize the impressive quality of the work done.

The latest personalized project launched by Artisans de Genève is a new interpretation of the pearl project, which aims to add hollowing and haute horology to the Nautilus 5711. The first project stems from the wishes of the customer and the owner of the steel version of this watch, hoping to differentiate it with the unique carbon fiber bezel. For the new “Honey Pearl” project, the base provided by the customer is 18k rose gold Nautilus 5711/1R, and the work done by Artisans de Genève once again reflects his desire, but also the technical know-how and traditional watches.

Based on this famous luxury sports watch, a new color palette is defined to create harmony between lines and colors while also providing classic high-end watchmaking pleasure. The movement is completely open and finished by hand. Here, the original 18k rose gold case, bezel and bracelet are kept intact, except for the personalized case back engraved with specific documents, and the reworked movement can be seen. The second chapter of the Pearl Project also did not incorporate modern materials, resulting in a more pleasing design, both luxurious and elegant.Patek replica

The real difference between the Honey Pearl Project and the original watch is its dial and transparent back cover. In fact, most of the work done by Artisans de Genève is focused on creating new color schemes and new dial designs. Therefore, the original dial has been replaced by a blue chapter ring, giving the movement a clear view. This ring uses newly designed and manufactured hour markers, made of 18k rose gold and filled with luminous material. It is beveled and shows a vertically brushed surface. Similarly, customers want to have newly designed hands that are multi-faceted, inclined and straight.

In addition to these changes to the residence, most of the work Artisans de Genève did on this honey pearl project can be seen on the movement. The workshop uses the original 26-330 SC movement of the donor watch, completely hollowing out the automatic movement, and most of the parts are carved with impressive precision and attention to detail. All parts are carefully cut, satin-finished and finely beveled by hand. The balance bridge even shows an impressive arm with a mirror-polished surface. The back of the watch shows the original round texture surface on the plywood, and the original gold rotor has been finely hollowed out and cut obliquely by hand. The result retains the elegant fusion of satin brush and mirror polished finishes, but the contrast is higher due to the anthracite treatment of the bridge and plywood.

With this new honey pearl project, Geneva craftsmen once again demonstrated their impressive craftsmanship. Remember, this personalization is requested by a private client. It is a sample of proprietary technology and therefore reflects the wishes of the original watch owner, and all modifications are made according to his requirements. The overall appearance is definitely polarized, which does not mean that everyone will appreciate it, but the level of execution is once again spectacular. The price will not be disclosed, but you can of course contact Artisans de Genève to create a creation based on your own watch to reflect your personality.

Technical Specifications-ARTISANS DE GENÈVE Honey Pearl Project
Case: 40 mm-18k rose gold case and bezel, based on Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1R-Sapphire crystal front and back cover-Newly designed back cover with special engraving-120 meters water resistance
Dial: Blue skeleton, beveled and 12 hours/6 hours brushed polished dial, rose gold hour markers, rose gold H/M hands, satin-finished center
Movement: Improved Calibre 26-330 SC skeletonized, beveled and satin-finished, anthracite treatment, hand mirror polished balance bridge, skeletonized 21-carat gold rotor-other specifications are the same as Nautilus 5711
Bracelet: Original 18K rose gold bracelet and folding clasp

Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G

The 5740/1G perfectly showcases the modern complications of best Patek Philippe and demonstrates the etiquette known and loved by all connoisseurs of fine watches.

Since we’re talking about Nautilus, it’s hard to miss the recent headlines. It has been confirmed that the Nautilus 5711/1A directly from Patek Philippe HQ has been discontinued. Yes, you understand what I mean. Patek Philippe will stop manufacturing the coveted Nautilus 5711 from steel. (Although the rose gold version is still in production).

As predicted, the already sky-high prices rose further and entered the stratosphere of the gray market. If you think the demand for the 5711 is crazy, then the discontinuation of the 5711 will only make it more popular. Those on the waiting list may be out of luck if they have not received a call announcing its arrival. The only option left is to acquire it on the secondary market. Six-figure stainless steel sports model.

Patek Philippe is expected to release the 5711/1A replacement in Watches & Wonders in April 2021. There are rumors that Patek Philippe will not replace the 5711 with a newer steel version, but will use a larger 42mm case size titanium successor.

However, the focus today is not 5711. The focus is on its complicated brother, the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G, which, in my opinion, is the longest Nautilus has slept since its debut.

5740/1G perfectly demonstrates the exquisite craftsmanship of Patek Philippe: thin, bold, complex, perfect and balanced.

Ultimate Nautilus, period
The Gerald Genta design (Royal Oak and Nautilus), although an outsider when it was first introduced in the 1970s, is one of the most iconic watches on the market today.

In the early 2010s, Nautilus had not launched a large complication watch, while Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak perpetual calendar and large complication watch were a big success.

At Baselworld in 2018, Patek Philippe’s response to the 5740 released surprised many people. After timing, calendar and timekeeping, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G is currently the most complicated Nautilus in the family.

But when you think about it, Patek Philippe’s launch of the first complication in the Nautilus series makes perfect sense. After all, despite the hype surrounding the steel sports watch, please don’t forget that Patek Philippe is best at Grand Complications, not Nautilus.
This Nautilus Perpetual Calendar is low-key and unassuming, harmonious, rare and luxurious.

When I first saw this watch in a reporter’s photo, I knew it would be a large-scale modern Nautilus acquisition (this is if I have dough, of course buy one). Of course, it is unconventional, but Patek Philippe combines two important components into the 5740-the shape of the Nautilus case and the 240 Q movement.

Despite its complexity, the Nautilus 5740/1G is still loyal to the original concept designed by Genta, without degradation or interference with the original design. The final result of the 5740/1G is one of the most classic designs ever, and it complements the typical Patek Philippe movement.

Patek Philippe’s QP module Calibre 240 Q
QP (Quantième Perpétuel-French Perpetual Calendar) is part of the highly traditional “Holy Grail” complication produced by Patek Philippe, together with the double rattrapante chronograph, tourbillon and minute repeater.

The QP module Calibre 240 Q is an ultra-thin movement created in the 1970s. The 5740 is the same as the movement in the Ref 5940 and has been upgraded with many modern features, such as the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring. Calibre 240 Q is powered by a miniature rotor made of 22k gold, and is engraved with the Patek Philippe Calatrava cross logo and the iconic Côtes de Genève pattern.

If you don’t know, this is the thinnest perpetual calendar currently produced by Patek Philippe (only 8.42 mm thick), and it’s not even a formal watch. For a sport full of such complexity, this is an amazing feat. Like all Patek Philippe’s works, the movement has a series of exquisite finishes, including the chamfering and polished edges of the plywood.

The iconic perpetual calendar in the Nautilus case
The reference model 5740G is a solid 18k white gold Nautilus with a recognizable QP layout on the dial, which displays the month, day of the week, date, leap year, moon phase and 24-hour period. Although the complications are new, this watch is Nautilus through and through-it has a classic blue dial and horizontal ribs, luminous application markers and hands, and a mix of brushed and polished finishes that give the watch so much vitality .

The moon phase complication only deviates from the actual position of the moon by one day every 122 years. The corrector button of the calendar is located symmetrically on one of the lugs and the “ear” of the case.

Part of the charm that 5740 shares with its Nautilus siblings is the framed dial with porthole aperture, which provides an attractive alternative to the ubiquitous round window. With a 3-6-9 dial layout, the 5740 feels balanced and surprisingly not too busy. Compared with 5712, the dial is definitely more symmetrical.

50 blues

Compared with the photo, the light blue PVD ​​coated dial is more attractive physically. The impressive metallic blue is lighter than the gradient blue on the steel Nautilus, making it very attractive in all kinds of lighting. The blue on the dial changes from light metallic blue to dark navy blue, depending on the ambient light and angle.

The gradual sunburst pattern on the dial is similar to the 40th anniversary limited edition Nautilus series. The rod-shaped hands and white gold applied hour markers are treated with Superluminova.

The Nautilus design we adore
The case is identical to the coveted 5711 in terms of case shape and proportions. They could have followed the case size of the 44mm chronograph 5976/1G made for the 40th anniversary, but luckily they did not. The fact that the watch has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of only 8.32 mm is shocking.

As a solid precious metal watch with an integrated bracelet, this means that it will be heavier compared to its steel siblings, but in my opinion, this is a plus point. If you have Steel Nautilus on hand, you will understand what I mean.

As expected, the execution quality of the case and bracelet is beyond doubt, and the 5740G opens a new folding clasp. The one-piece bracelet combines a highly polished central link and satin polished side links. It adopts a new folding clasp design with four independent clasps to prevent accidental loosening of any of the two clasps. open.

Final thoughts
In the esoteric world of fine watchmaking, we are all grateful for the presence and integrity of the watch etiquette. Traditions are preserved and found in most of the brands we love, and there is no tendency to belittle craftsmanship in some crude expedients (with some exceptions of course).

Although fake Patek Philippe still offers traditional-style formal watches, modern timepieces full of modernity have inspired innovation in the watch industry. Patek Philippe’s ownership goes beyond the functions assigned and invites its owners to focus on details and unparalleled craftsmanship.

5740 combines casual sports style with technical exquisiteness, showing the best in the high-end watch industry. The case is slender and luxurious, sturdy and durable. It is the perfect watch for you to wear and appreciate its beauty every day.

Any Patek Philippe collector or watch enthusiast will be impressed by its charm. This is a slim timepiece equipped with oversized complications, a self-winding movement and unparalleled finishing (finishing). This fascinating timepiece is a model of contemporary design, but retains the traditional craftsmanship of the independent Geneva brand.

Model: Nautilus Perpetual Calendar
Reference number: 5740/1G-001
Movement: Calibre 240 Q, hour, minute, 24-hour dial, perpetual calendar with month, day, date, leap year display and moon phase, 38-48 hours power reserve
Case material: 18k white gold, diameter 40 mm, height 8.42 mm
Dial color: blue, applied baton and Arabic numeral hour markers, luminous hour markers
Water resistance: 60 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated platinum bracelet

Black dial Patek Philippe 5960/1A

Watch collection as a hobby may be the most popular of all time, and few categories can be as hyped as cheap Patek Philippe stainless steel sports watches. Specifically, Nautilus and Aquanaut. However, the popularity of these steel sports watches has only recently emerged. The timepieces that made Patek Philippe the master of today are their complex timepieces. Our watch here combines the versatility and durability of a bracelet stainless steel watch with Patek Philippe’s sophisticated watch technology. This is a Patek Philippe 5960/1A black dial. It may be the best stainless steel Patek Philippe model on the market.

Patek Philippe 5960/1A is the pinnacle of Patek Philippe’s long history of creating innovative and complex movements. This watch was released in 2006 and combines the annual calendar complication invented by Patek Philippe in 1996 with an internal automatic flyback chronograph. This is Patek Philippe’s first watch that combines these two complications, and it is also the first self-made automatic chronograph movement in Patek Philippe’s history. This watch reminds people that although Patek Philippe has more than 100 years of watchmaking history, they have still made many milestones in the near future. The 5960 also stands out with its distinctive movement and modern design, which is different from many other complex watches of Patek Philippe. This more sporty appearance, together with its automatic movement, has won a lot of praise as an excellent daily wearer.

Fast forward to 2014, and Patek Philippe will further lean towards the versatility of this model for everyday wearers by launching a steel version on a steel bracelet. By this time, the steel sports watch market has begun to heat up. The introduction of such a complicated model in a sporty and durable package has played a role as a bridge for young Patek Philippe collectors to switch from Nautilus to other brands. The brand is more interesting in the field of watches. In 2017, Patek Philippe launched the stainless steel watch you see here, but now it has a black dial. However, both steel-to-steel variants were discontinued in 2018, which means that this particular reference was only produced for one year. In addition to many desirable mechanical and design features, the scarcity of this timepiece makes it one of the more collectible modern Patek Philippe.

Although it has never been sold like this, this watch exudes a strong racing watch vibe. The matte black dial is combined with the silver brushed outer track. The polished and faceted day, date and month windows exude a little checkered flag, while the bright red chronograph hands just scream, “I want to go fast!” Even the numbers indicating the minutes and hours on the single counter at six o’clock reminded me of the speedometers of the 1940s. In other words, although its modern, sporty appearance stands out from other complex models of best Patek Philippe, it is not a loud or overly casual timepiece.

The case and bracelet are highly polished to balance the movement of the dial. In addition, the steel bracelet has five small links, which is more formal than the brushed three-link bracelet. The case is slightly larger, measuring 40.5 mm x 13.5 mm, but it has elegant smooth lines and a concave bezel, both of which help to reduce the size ergonomically and visually. The lugs are thin and have nice curves, allowing various wrist sizes to be worn comfortably on this watch. Overall, this watch is visually very balanced, making it a perfect match for formal or casual wear. However, it should be noted that although its materials and styles are very sporty, this watch is only 30m waterproof, so although it can cope with most of the harsh daily tests, swimming is not one of them.

Internally, the 5960 defeated the internal caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H. If the long name is not leaked, this is a feature-rich sport. This is an automatic annual calendar with a flyback chronograph and power reserve display. This combination of complications is another reason why this watch is so practical for everyday wear. At a glance, you can see the day of the week, date, month and am/pm indicator and elapsed time, with the second in the center, and the minutes and hours in six places on the subdial. With so many useful features, this 5960 can be comparable to Apple Watch.

In addition to a series of useful complex functions, you can also get excellent finishing results. The rhodium-plated movement comes with a Patek Philippe quality seal and 40 gems, a gorgeous Côtes de Genève finish and a 21k yellow gold oscillating weight. In addition, the movement is equipped with Patek Philippe’s advanced Gyromax balance and the Breguet balance spring with free spring, both of which improve the durability and accuracy of the movement.

In my opinion, the biggest competition for cheap Patek Philippe 5960/1A steel black dial steel is its white dial brother. This watch has many advantages in terms of history and function, if you are interested in it, nothing else will scratch it. The production time of the white dial variant is much longer than that of the black dial variant, but the production cycle is still relatively short-4 years-I think its appearance is more polarized-no puns-but it is completely in other respects The same watch.

However, if you just buy a high-end perpetual calendar chronograph on the market, then this Lange Datograph perpetual calendar is worth a look. This is an 18k rose gold manual winding perpetual calendar chronograph. The perpetual calendar has advantages because you only need to set the date once in your life instead of once a year, and because this is a manual winding movement, it is visually more complicated and, in my opinion, better looking. However, this also means that due to its 36-hour power reserve, you need to wind frequently. Coupled with the gorgeous rose gold case, it is not as versatile as the 5960/1A. But like the white dial 5960, it is indeed lower than the black dial 5960.

Interestingly, although this watch was originally made to attract young collectors, I think it is now the most attractive to OG Patek fans. It has all the signs that Patek Philippe does best and breaks all Nautilus mania. This watch is for collectors who are confused by the standard Nautilus, which sells for $400,000, and are content to spend their money on rarer and interesting steel watches.

On paper, this cheapest watches reads like it was designed in a laboratory and is the ultimate collector’s watch. It is rare, versatile, elegant and complex. If you plan to spend more than $100,000 on a stainless steel watch, please buy this watch and you will not regret it.

Patek Philippe-Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119R and 6119G

Patek Philippe fake is updating one of its most iconic formal watches, Calatrava, whose bezel is decorated with a guilloche “Paris nail” pattern.

This polished diamond pattern composed of small pyramid tips first appeared on Calatrava’s bezel in 1934, Ref. 96D (D stands for decoration). Since then, it has been reinterpreted into multiple versions. The most successful model with this decorative element is probably the Reference 3919, launched in 1985 and produced for 20 years: it is equipped with a manual winding 215 PS movement, a small second at 6 o’clock, black lacquered Roman numerals and White dial with straight lugs.

The Calatrava “Clous de Paris” now has an obvious modern appearance, with a diameter of 39 mm, a dial with three-dimensional hour markers and a new hand-wound Patek Philippe movement specially developed for this model.

Two versions are proposed. Reference 6119R-001 combines a rose gold case and a silver grained dial, as well as rose gold applied hour-markers and hands.

The platinum model Reference 6119G-001 features a charcoal gray dial, interrupted by a vertical satin finish and a snail-shaped small seconds counter. The applied hour markers and hands are made of the same metal as the case.

The golden prince-style hour and minute hands have three facets instead of two. Thanks to the railway track minute scale on the periphery of the dial, it is easy to read. The slender “cheveu”-style seconds hand rotates on an auxiliary subdial at 6 o’clock, which is divided into four quarters.

The round bezel is decorated with guilloche studs, a slightly wider chamfered profile and a slender polished rounded frame-shaped sapphire crystal mirror.

The shape of the strap ears has also been redesigned. They are now not straight, but curved, the transition from the case to the strap is smoother and makes the wrist more comfortable.

The new hand-wound Patek Philippe movement with a power reserve of 65 hours is specially designed for this model. Its development was based on the desire for a manual winding movement with a diameter greater than 215 PS.

In fact, the inner diameter of the new 30-255 PS movement is 30.4 mm (total diameter of 31 mm), while the 215 PS is 21.5 mm (total diameter of 21.9 mm), and the height remains unchanged at 2.55 mm, which makes it It is possible to limit the total thickness of the luxury replica watches (the back of the crystal) to 8.08 mm.

The new 30-255 PS movement is particularly robust, providing a power reserve of 65 hours or nearly three days. The result is achieved by using two main barrels arranged in parallel. Unlike series barrels to extend the power reserve, parallel barrels increase the torque of the movement by increasing the torque of two barrels.

Despite the slim structure, this solution supports the maximum force and allows the deployment of a balance with twice the moment of inertia of 10 mg/cm2. The higher moment of inertia improves rate stability and simplifies the precise adjustment of a movement that beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,000 vibrations per hour), with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds in 24 hours.

The stop-second function, which stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled, can set the time with one second accuracy. When the crown is pushed back to its original position, the mechanism activates the balance wheel to make it move again.

Through the sapphire crystal caseback, you can see that the 30-255 PS movement has six bridges-one for each wheel or function-with Geneva stripes and chamfered and polished edges.

The new Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris” in red gold (Ref. 6119R) or platinum (Ref. 6119G).

Patek Philippe launched the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

And elegant calibration. 30-255 PS sports.

Although Calatrava is often overlooked and prefers luxury sports watches, it may be a classic of Patek Philippe-it came out in 1932 and named after the brand’s logo-with diverse designs and elegance Simplicity.

Patek Philippe’s second batch of new watches launched in Watches & Wonders 2021 focuses on exquisite, sophisticated watches-it just announced a striking new perpetual calendar-and naturally includes Karat Calatrava (Calatrava), which also added Calatrava (Calatrava) “Clous de Paris” mark. 6119.

Pay tribute to famous Calatrava models (such as ref). 3919 and its successors ref. No. 5119 6119 combines several iconic elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more modern mask, and is available in rose gold or white gold. It is important to refer to. The 6119 is driven by a newly developed manual winding machine. 30-255 PS, large, thin movement with double barrels-the balance wheel has a high moment of inertia.

I have always been a fan of Calatrava, especially the variant with a hinged “Hunter” back like ref. 5227. Known as a gentleman’s superior watch, it represents Patek Philippe’s traditional and exquisite watchmaking methods.

But Calatrava’s previous generations of cases are relatively small-reference. 3919 is 33mm, and ref. The case of the 5119 is 36 mm. And more latest models, such as 40 mm reference. The 6007, which was launched last year, tends to be more casual in style, which may be too casual for Calatrava.

In contrast, reference 6119 achieves the best results. With a diameter of 39 mm, the case is larger, but still delicate enough to be regarded as an elegant formal watch.

Between the two, I would choose the platinum model; its vertical matte gray dial is understated and more modern than the rose gold version. cheap Patek Philippe introduced the reference material in its announcement. 6119 as a model of “reflecting the changes of the times”-the platinum model is definitely a more modern appearance.

referee. The 6119 movement is better, more refined than similar products, and higher specifications. There is also the fact that it looks the most beautiful and has the longest history.

Contemporary Calatrava
As the name suggests, ref. The 6119 has a bezel similar to the Clous de Paris or Hobnail shown in the references. 3919 and reference. 5119. Some of the trademark features of Patek Philippe watches in the 1980s and 1990s. Today’s nail bezels are relatively uncommon, but they are eye-catching and enhance the decoration of the case without exceeding the top. referee. The 6119’s bezel has a wider, more slanted contour, which makes the wrist more feel.

Although the dial style is restricted, it is composed of many thoughtful details. The key element to make its appearance more modern is the peripheral railway minute track. This is a simple printed track, but it has been enhanced by applying a golden sphere in the 5-minute mark.

The applied “obus” hour markers are pure gold with facets on all four sides so that they can capture light well. In addition, the dauphine pointer has three facets in the longitudinal direction, and their appearance is more eye-catching than the elongated flat leaf pointer in the past model.

And there are many textures. On the white gold model, the dial is obviously drawn vertically, while the sub-second dial is printed with a concentric pattern and divided into quarters with crosshairs, reminiscent of the “fan-shaped” dial of an old-fashioned watch.

The rose gold model has a more classic grain texture, extending into the second hand, and polished with rose gold to match the case.

The case design draws on the original Calatrava reference. No. 96 in 1932, with curved tapered lugs instead of straight lugs on the referee. 3919 and 5119. These make the area of ​​the watch slightly larger, so that the watch has more appearance without having to increase the diameter of the case. Although the case is relatively large, the height of reference 6119 is only 8.08 mm, which is still slim and a true formal watch.

The slim profile is due to the new internal calibration function. 30-255 PS.

Although it is much wider than cal. 215 PS found. 3919 and 5119, this is the actual movement of the manually wound Calatrava model for decades. 30-255 PS maintains the same thickness of 2.5 mm.

Several aspects of the traditional movement structure have been reconfigured to help achieve lightness and thinness. One is the “intermediate pinion without a pinion, which meshes with the central gear through an intermediate gear”-essentially a more streamlined arrangement of gears-and the other is the crown and ratchet, which are located under the barrel bridge instead of above.

The manual winding movement has a 65-hour power reserve, which is a significant improvement over the 44-hour movement. 215 PS.

It uses parallel or simultaneous double barrels to achieve. The dual parallel barrels greatly increase the torque of the movement: Patek Philippe says that the balance wheel has the highest moment of inertia in its 4 Hz movement. In other words, it has excellent HDF.

This improves the stability of its beat rate-meaning better timing without being affected by external factors such as vibration-and also makes adjustment easier. Like all movements certified with the Patek Philippe seal, cal. The rated accuracy of 30-255 PS per day reaches an impressive -3/+2.

It is worth noting that cal. The surface treatment effect of 30-255 PS is also slightly better than that of its predecessors, showing the usual Côtes de Genève and shocking power, but also improved details, such as the bridge slope with sharp external angles, although it can be completed by stamping.

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris”
Ref. 6119G-001 (white gold)
Ref. 6119R-001 (rose gold)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.08 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 30-255 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold pin buckle

Count down the most wanted Patek Philippe watches

Patek Philippe replica watches with more than 160 years of watchmaking experience are an eternal pursuit for all tasteful collectors, especially for those who pursue fine traditions and high-quality craftsmanship. The brand’s prestigious series include many unique features and functions, such as perpetual watches, annual calendar watches, tourbillons and timekeeping watches and so on.

Patek Philippe will always be a frequent visitor to well-known watch auctions like Antiquorum, and it seems to be always refreshing amazing transaction records. The brand loves that eternal success-so star-studded figures like Albert Einstein, Duke Ellington, Pyotr Tchaikovsky, Queen Victoria, Pope Pio IX, and Rudyard Kipling are all on the list of Patek Philippe’s former distinguished customers .

Patek Philippe Calatrava series

Calatrava series is named after the symbol of Patek Philippe-the beautiful Calatrava Cross. The first Calatrava appeared in 1932. In the past 70 years, Patek Philippe designers have continued to expand the series, adding more excellent designs and functions. It is still the most popular series of Patek Philippe. So far, at least 24 different models have been created.

As the brand’s most famous series, Calatrava perfectly blends the roundness of the dial with the classic beauty of the watch shape.

The original Patek Philippe Calatrava followed the creative philosophy of the German Bauhaus School of Architecture and Art-form should meet the needs of function. Today, designers still use the Bauhaus theory in Calatrava’s design and development. The Calatrava series reflects the idea that the main responsibility of a chronograph is to record time in the most accurate way. The Bauhaus school has always abandoned excessive and useless decorative details, so the Calatrava series will never allow any design to attract the wearer’s attention too much-people’s visual focus will always be on the record of time. The appearance of the first Bauhaus style Calatrava laid the foundation for the design concept of every subsequent watch of the same series.

Gondolo series

Speaking of the story of the Gondolo series, it goes back to the period 1900-1928. At that time, Patek Philippe was cooperating with the Gondolo and Labouriau jewelry store in Rio de Janeiro. As one of the results of the cooperation, the Chronometro Gondolo pocket watch came into being. Its excellent quality and precise timekeeping mechanism quickly won the attention of watch collectors.

In 1910, Patek Philippe introduced watch styles for Gondolo. The Gondolo dial has a variety of shapes, from barrels, squares, rectangles, and even polygons. The design is inspired by the masterpieces of designers from other watchmaking companies around the world. For this initiative, Brazilian shareholders are so satisfied that they have since directly used “Patek” as a synonym for “watch”.

Golden Ellipse series

Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse series realizes the perfect unity of watch shape and elegance. The oval shape of the dial means the classic integration of circle and rectangle. In 1968, Patek Philippe’s first Golden Ellipse debuted. At that time, Patek Philippe’s watches were different from all contemporary watches. This Golden Ellipse won more than just a temporary fashion craze; its golden ratio-like perfect proportions keep it on the classic list of world watch history forever.

The ellipse of Golden Ellipse is designed based on the classical theory of the golden section of the ancient Greek mathematician. This classic proportion has already achieved countless masterpieces of architectural design and fine art. This watch is not only bold in design, but also compatible with elegance and peace. Its iconic design has long been recognized by the world as a pioneer in creating trends. To this day, it is still one of the most recognizable watch styles in the world.

Today, best Patek Philippe designers continue to introduce new styles to the Golden Ellipse series, and even add jewelry designs to it. No matter how you change, the essence of design will always stand out. It is no exaggeration to say that it is the perfect combination of classic aesthetics and precise timing. Golden Ellipse is so precise that it has even expanded the Geneva watchmaking craftsmanship with a century-old tradition.