Patek Philippe launched the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

And elegant calibration. 30-255 PS sports.

Although Calatrava is often overlooked and prefers luxury sports watches, it may be a classic of Patek Philippe-it came out in 1932 and named after the brand’s logo-with diverse designs and elegance Simplicity.

Patek Philippe’s second batch of new watches launched in Watches & Wonders 2021 focuses on exquisite, sophisticated watches-it just announced a striking new perpetual calendar-and naturally includes Karat Calatrava (Calatrava), which also added Calatrava (Calatrava) “Clous de Paris” mark. 6119.

Pay tribute to famous Calatrava models (such as ref). 3919 and its successors ref. No. 5119 6119 combines several iconic elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more modern mask, and is available in rose gold or white gold. It is important to refer to. The 6119 is driven by a newly developed manual winding machine. 30-255 PS, large, thin movement with double barrels-the balance wheel has a high moment of inertia.

I have always been a fan of Calatrava, especially the variant with a hinged “Hunter” back like ref. 5227. Known as a gentleman’s superior watch, it represents Patek Philippe’s traditional and exquisite watchmaking methods.

But Calatrava’s previous generations of cases are relatively small-reference. 3919 is 33mm, and ref. The case of the 5119 is 36 mm. And more latest models, such as 40 mm reference. The 6007, which was launched last year, tends to be more casual in style, which may be too casual for Calatrava.

In contrast, reference 6119 achieves the best results. With a diameter of 39 mm, the case is larger, but still delicate enough to be regarded as an elegant formal watch.

Between the two, I would choose the platinum model; its vertical matte gray dial is understated and more modern than the rose gold version. cheap Patek Philippe introduced the reference material in its announcement. 6119 as a model of “reflecting the changes of the times”-the platinum model is definitely a more modern appearance.

referee. The 6119 movement is better, more refined than similar products, and higher specifications. There is also the fact that it looks the most beautiful and has the longest history.

Contemporary Calatrava
As the name suggests, ref. The 6119 has a bezel similar to the Clous de Paris or Hobnail shown in the references. 3919 and reference. 5119. Some of the trademark features of Patek Philippe watches in the 1980s and 1990s. Today’s nail bezels are relatively uncommon, but they are eye-catching and enhance the decoration of the case without exceeding the top. referee. The 6119’s bezel has a wider, more slanted contour, which makes the wrist more feel.

Although the dial style is restricted, it is composed of many thoughtful details. The key element to make its appearance more modern is the peripheral railway minute track. This is a simple printed track, but it has been enhanced by applying a golden sphere in the 5-minute mark.

The applied “obus” hour markers are pure gold with facets on all four sides so that they can capture light well. In addition, the dauphine pointer has three facets in the longitudinal direction, and their appearance is more eye-catching than the elongated flat leaf pointer in the past model.

And there are many textures. On the white gold model, the dial is obviously drawn vertically, while the sub-second dial is printed with a concentric pattern and divided into quarters with crosshairs, reminiscent of the “fan-shaped” dial of an old-fashioned watch.

The rose gold model has a more classic grain texture, extending into the second hand, and polished with rose gold to match the case.

The case design draws on the original Calatrava reference. No. 96 in 1932, with curved tapered lugs instead of straight lugs on the referee. 3919 and 5119. These make the area of ​​the watch slightly larger, so that the watch has more appearance without having to increase the diameter of the case. Although the case is relatively large, the height of reference 6119 is only 8.08 mm, which is still slim and a true formal watch.

The slim profile is due to the new internal calibration function. 30-255 PS.

Although it is much wider than cal. 215 PS found. 3919 and 5119, this is the actual movement of the manually wound Calatrava model for decades. 30-255 PS maintains the same thickness of 2.5 mm.

Several aspects of the traditional movement structure have been reconfigured to help achieve lightness and thinness. One is the “intermediate pinion without a pinion, which meshes with the central gear through an intermediate gear”-essentially a more streamlined arrangement of gears-and the other is the crown and ratchet, which are located under the barrel bridge instead of above.

The manual winding movement has a 65-hour power reserve, which is a significant improvement over the 44-hour movement. 215 PS.

It uses parallel or simultaneous double barrels to achieve. The dual parallel barrels greatly increase the torque of the movement: Patek Philippe says that the balance wheel has the highest moment of inertia in its 4 Hz movement. In other words, it has excellent HDF.

This improves the stability of its beat rate-meaning better timing without being affected by external factors such as vibration-and also makes adjustment easier. Like all movements certified with the Patek Philippe seal, cal. The rated accuracy of 30-255 PS per day reaches an impressive -3/+2.

It is worth noting that cal. The surface treatment effect of 30-255 PS is also slightly better than that of its predecessors, showing the usual Côtes de Genève and shocking power, but also improved details, such as the bridge slope with sharp external angles, although it can be completed by stamping.

Patek Philippe Calatrava “Clous de Paris”
Ref. 6119G-001 (white gold)
Ref. 6119R-001 (rose gold)

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.08 mm
Material: 18k white or rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 30-255 PS
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Hand wind
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with gold pin buckle