Up close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater

Tops in style and sophistication.

Known for its jewelry clocks and planetariums, Jacob & Co. specializes in top-of-the-line watches. One of its latest products is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, this large watch features the brand’s typical sapphire cake dome style and houses a 758-component movement. While the Godfather branding on the dial is flashy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressive.

The Godfather repeater can tell the time through the minute repeater function and can also play the Godfather theme on the miniature binocular music box inside the case (see video below). This makes it essentially a double-chain complication: one barrel and running chain drive the three-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and chain drive the music box .

Jacob & Co. fake specializes in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. For example, the Twin Turbo Furious is one of the more modest complications offered by the brand.

The Godfather Repeater is just right for that track. It’s very large – nearly 50mm wide and over 20mm high – so it scores poorly on abrasion resistance. But it scores highly on the state of the wrist, both aesthetically and functionally, which is certainly the focus of the entire exercise.

That said, the large size is more than just vanity. This makes perfect sense mechanically, as the case is filled with the movement. The movement developed by Le Cercle des Horlogers, a frequent partner of Jacob & Co., is very interesting. The construction of the movement can be deduced from what is visible, which is of course novel – the layout has to be twisted to accommodate the music box, time display and tourbillon on the front.

Its complex combination – repeater, music box and tourbillon – is not common. A few brands do make music box watches, notably Breguet, Christophe Claret, and Ulysse Nardin, but neither a minute repeater nor a tourbillon, making Jacob & Co. the only brand to offer one.

These acoustic complexities make sense when put together, but the nature of the music box inevitably requires a massive movement, which results in a massive top quality watches. Even the Breguet La Musicale 7800, possibly the most elegant music box watch ever made, is only 48mm in diameter.

The sophistication of the Godfather repeater is impressive. And it does a decent job with sound. Both the repeater and the music box are clear and pleasant, despite the inevitable buzz of the Doge. The repeater, in particular, is particularly loud, thanks in part to the wide and ventilated interior of the case.

As an otherworldly, highly complex watch, the Godfather Minute Repeater has been an admirable success with a bold statement. Its size and complexity are gorgeous enough on their own, which makes the branding on the dial excessive and unnecessary.

The godfather emblem and portrait of Marlon Brando on the miniature grand—not forgetting the violin-shaped crown lever—reminiscent of cheap movie memorabilia. They’re tacky and unnecessary – take it all and it’s still the godfather repeater.

And on the subject of The Godfather, best Jacob & Co. has acquired the film rights to a series of watches. The basic Godfather is a three-axis tourbillon with a music box and track display, but no minute repeater. There are six variants of this model, plus several versions of the Godfather repeater, including one with an (and tacky) bullet-marked hour. Jacob & Co. also makes some Scarface watches. There are too many watches based on gangster movies in the brand’s catalog, though that might just be the result its customers want.

The Godfather Repeater is good at what it wants to be. To do so, it requires a retail price of $600,000, which makes it expensive relative to comparable watches. For example, the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem Minute Repeater retails for just under $500,000. Still, nothing else compares to it – repeaters, music boxes and multi-axis tourbillons (don’t forget the retro organised crime theme) – so it can’t compare to anything else.

under the cake dome
The case of the Godfather repeater is more like a gold frame for multiple sapphire windows on all sides. I counted the seven sapphire windows on the front, sides and back, which offer panoramic views of the movement.

All those windows and its tall profile also give it the cake-dome look that has become Jacob & Co.’s signature watch aesthetic thanks to the brand’s best-selling complication, the Astronomia.

The case is tall, making the skeletonized lugs appear exaggerated. But they’re cleverly kept short and sloped down, and the strap is attached to the bottom of the case, so despite the watch’s large diameter, it’s in a decent position.

Despite everything on the dial, legibility is surprisingly good. This is thanks to the elevated skeleton sub-dial in rose gold at the time, which contrasts sharply with the movement.

Raised with additional gearing, the raised time display is necessary to make room for everything below – the music box’s two cylinders, a spherical three-axis tourbillon and striking mechanism. Surrounding all of this is the repeater’s raised gong.

The time display, tourbillon and mainspring form the part of the movement that is responsible for timing.

This in turn connects to the striking mechanism visible on the back, which “reads” the current time and then strikes the hammers and gongs on the front. Essentially a modular mechanism mounted on the back of the movement, the striking mechanism, along with the hammers and gongs, forms the second key part of the movement. buy watches online

The last part is the music box, which is an independent body. That is to say, even if the striking barrel is not wound and the time is not adjusted, the music box will work normally.

It can do this because the music box is powered by its own barrel, which is wound by the same crown. I believe the two barrels are stacked, with the barrel closest to the case back powering the chronograph and the other hidden barrel for the music box.

The one-piece violin-shaped lever, the crown has two winding directions, one for the timekeeping barrel winding, and the other for the music box barrel winding.

When fully wound, the chronograph movement can run for 44 hours—a respectable thing considering the size of the constantly moving tourbillon—while the music box can play three full sequences in full wind.

It’s hard to imagine that the three-axis tourbillon isn’t the most prominent element in the movement, but it has a lot of competition in the Godfather minute repeater.

The music box consists of two copper cylinders with steel needles, each of which rotates against a steel comb. The vibrations of the 30 teeth of the two combs then produce a composition of 120 notes.

Because the cylinders must rotate at a constant speed, their movement is regulated by a governor visible at two o’clock. Like the repeater’s governor (visible at six o’clock), it uses air resistance to regulate the movement of the cylinder.

Located at 1 o’clock is the three-axis tourbillon, the same as the one in the Twin Turbo Furious, which was also developed by the same movement specialist. Aside from the tourbillon, both the Godfather minute repeater and the Twin Turbo Furious share several elements of their movements, including the minute repeater mechanism.

The tourbillon rotates at high speed: the outermost cage rotates once every 180 seconds, the middle cage completes a rotation every 48 seconds, and the innermost cage completes a rotation every 24 seconds.

The tourbillon also employs a “torque separation” mechanism, essentially two superimposed wheels, connected by springs, with a limited range of relative motion. This limits the energy delivered to the tourbillon – which is large and heavy – in turn smoothing out the energy delivered to the balance wheel. Due to this mechanism, the movement of the cage can sometimes appear jerky, as if it were gradually rotating.

The separation mechanism is a solution to the problems created by tourbillons that are not necessary for simpler tourbillons, or none at all. But that would completely ignore the point of this watch, which is minimal in style and function. Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon

With the development of the multi-axis tourbillon, this one is a more elegant one. Thanks to the extensive use of skeletonized wheels made by LIGA, a lithography technique that enables extreme detail on a tiny scale, the tourbillon has many exotic shapes.

The other major kit up front is the strike mechanism. A pair of hammers and accompanying gong are visible at the front. The repeater setup is traditional, although the two gongs dove significantly upwards as they extend out of the base in order to clear the music box mechanism on the dial.

The striking is controlled by a percussion mechanism visible on the back. This is a series of racks that “read” the time and convert it into an input for the hammer and gong. In terms of decoration, the movement is exquisitely crafted – clean, capable and comprehensive, but not entirely handmade. That said, the refined finish is certainly not what attracts buyers to such a watch.

The Godfather Repeat watch, and Jacob & Co. more broadly, occupy a unique niche of luxury, over-the-top timepieces that no other brand can match. While many brands in this segment share similar styles, the Godfather Repeater and many other Jacob & Co. complications are different.

Granted, the Godfather repeater could be improved — mostly by dialing back the brand — but it excels at maintaining the status quo.

Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater
refer to. OP500.40.AA.AA.ABALA

Diameter: 49 mm
Height: 23 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: JCFM07
Functions: Time, minute repeater, three-axis tourbillon and music box with two cylinders
Winding: Manual winding
Frequency: 21,600 beats/hour (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 44 hours

Strap: Alligator leather with folding clasp

Luxury SevenFriday T3/04 Grrrr-ed

SevenFriday T3/04 Grrrr-ed

Movement: Automatic
Caliber: TMI (Seiko) NH70, In-house
Power reserve: 40 hours
Yeat: 2022

Dial
Dial color: Artistic Dial, Red

Case
Case material: Black PVD, Stainless Steel

Strap
Strap material: Leather, Textile
Strap color: Red
Buckle type: Pin

Functions
Hours
Minutes

Special Features
Water resistance 30m/3 bar

De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius

Humans have long looked to the sky for inspiration. The stars provide a way to tell a story, a way to navigate the world, and a reason for humans to dream and think about our place in the universe. Watchmakers and astronomers often work together to advance the scientific discovery process, resulting in new discoveries in the fields of astronomy and watchmaking.

It’s this history of innovation that has inspired De Bethune co-founder and master watchmaker Denis Flageollet to push the boundaries of innovation and materials, looking to the stars for inspiration in his avant-garde sci-fi-themed watches. De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius is less of a sci-fi adventure and more of a hit from Denis Flageollet. This watch should be synonymous with his name and the De Bethune brand.

Starry Varius perfectly leverages Denis Flageollet’s design aesthetic and iconic queue. On the case, Flageollet includes his signature skeletonized lugs, which curve gracefully along the wrist. The lugs feature torpedo points, a subtle nod to his earliest watch, the De Bethune DB1 chronograph, with its retro French inspiration.

The dial showcases De Bethune’s material innovations, with a flame-blue titanium central disc with a display of the Milky Way. Finished with hand-set and polished 24k leaf gold cabochons and laser micro-milling, the pattern depicts the Milky Way. Breguet rose gold hands complete the watch and complement the handcrafted dial.

The entire movement is finished in the Bethune curve, an in-house finishing technique that interacts with light in a beautiful and captivating way, the stripes are evident in natural light, and adjusting the angle of the watch and letting the light dance on it is a pleasure. The double-barrel system features a hand-snailed, compact spiral finish and offers an incredible six-day power reserve via the hand-wound DB2005 movement.

The movement incorporates many of Flageollet’s inventions, including a triple-chute anti-shock system, self-regulating double barrels, a titanium balance with platinum inserts, a fake De Bethune hairspring with a flat-end curve, and a silicon escape wheel. See His titanium balance wheel and balance spring work incredible with its flat end curve, a truly mesmerizing sight.

Starry Varius takes De Bethune’s signature sci-fi feel, but captures De Bethune’s innovations and patents and expresses them in beautifully handcrafted watches. Notably, De Bethune will create a custom Starry Varius with a dial depicting the sky anywhere at any time, allowing you to mark special occasions and places in your life with the celestial dial of your choice.

Specification
Model: DB25 Starry Varius

Reference number: DB25VRS3

Case Size + Material: 42mm, 18k Rose Gold

Bottom cover: Exhibition bottom cover

Movement: Manual winding movement DB2005

Complications/functions: hours, minutes

Strap/Bracelet: Double-sided alligator leather strap, rose gold Tang buckle

New: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the birth of the fake Royal Oak, the Swiss haute horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to present the latest generation of the 39mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin watch (ref. 16202), which is equipped with the Manufacture’s new self-winding ultra-thin Movement, Calibre 7121. The collection includes four models in stainless steel, platinum, and 18-karat rose and yellow gold, materials that have played a major role in transforming the Royal Oak into an iconic collection. These four timepieces also feature a Royal Oak “50 Years” oscillating weight that matches the tone of the case. The new “Jumbo” watch pays homage to 50 years of Royal Oak’s design innovation with its refined contrasts, materials, colours and dial animations.

The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin model (ref. 16202) features the new self-winding movement Calibre 7121 and a range of dial designs, while paying homage to the aesthetics of the original watch.

Caliber 7121
contemporary history

For the first time since 1972, the ultra-thin Royal Oak “Jumbo” features the new self-winding hours, minutes and date movement, Calibre 7121, which marks the debut of the new “Jumbo” reference 16202. This mechanism replaces the Calibre 2121, first introduced on the Royal Oak in 1972, the thinnest automatic movement with a central rotor and date display (3.05mm), and it will be retired at the end of 2021. The new movement is 3.2mm thick and has been specially designed and produced by Audemars Piguet engineers and watchmakers to fit the ultra-thin 8.1mm “Jumbo” case without altering its aesthetics and thickness. In addition, the drive lever is now equipped with a quick date corrector.

The birth of the new Calibre 7121 took five years of development, and thanks to a completely new structure, it has more power than its predecessor. Its larger barrel gives it more power, making it more precise over longer periods of time. It also features a modern central oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings, which utilizes two reversers developed in-house to ensure bidirectional winding. Its balance wheel is fitted with inertia blocks that have been inserted directly into the balance wheel to avoid unnecessary friction. Additionally, the Calibre 7121 features a patented, ultra-thin, low-energy date setting mechanism.

In keeping with the tradition of fine watchmaking, the Calibre 7121 features refined Haute Horlogerie decorations such as “Côtes de Genève”, “tire signatures” and circular graining, which can be admired through the watch’s sapphire caseback.

The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin watch features a dedicated anniversary skeleton oscillating weight in 22-karat gold, engraved with the “50 Years” logo and engraved with Audemars Piguet’s signature. To do this, the oscillating weight is matched to the colour of each case – a practice usually reserved for complicated timepieces. Similar to the case, the oscillating weight is alternately satin-finished and polished-chamfered.

The “50 Years” oscillating weight will be installed on the Royal Oak Anniversary models throughout 2022.

A tribute to the original watch
The stainless steel “Jumbo” version retains the aesthetics of the original Royal Oak from 1972. The stainless steel case and bracelet are hand-brushed and polished and chamfered to complement the watch’s signature Petite Tapisserie dial and Bleu Nuit Nuage 50 (“Night Blue, Cloud 50”) hue. fake watch uk

The dial’s Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 colour was originally developed by Geneva-based dial maker Stern Frères. The blue hue is obtained by dipping each dial into an electroplating bath. While the recipe of the mix is ​​important, both duration and temperature are critical. If the craftsman removes the dial too early, it will turn purple, and if it is removed too late, it will turn black. Then apply a thin layer of varnish and a few drops of black (n°50) to the dial to protect it. The term “nuage” refers to the clouding effect of black droplets entering a protective liquid varnish. Today, the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 shade is achieved in-house by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to ensure a more even color across the range.

Similar to the 1972 Royal Oak, this new “Jumbo” model retains the original baignoire or “bathtub”-shaped indexes and hands, allowing a luminescent material to be injected for optimum legibility. The dial also retains the polished gold-plated AP monogram at 6 o’clock and the words “AUDEMARS PIGUET AUTOMATIC” printed at 12 o’clock. The “SWISS MADE” indicator that replaced “SWISS” around the mid-1980s is still at 6 o’clock, with SWISS and MADE on both sides of the hour markers to balance the dial.

Unlike the original, however, the sapphire caseback allows you to see the new ultra-thin movement and dedicated anniversary oscillating weight, here in rhodium-coloured 22-karat rose gold to match the colour of the watch’s steel case and bracelet. echo.

pink gold and gold
The new “Jumbo” collection includes both rose and yellow gold models, both featuring the trademark Petite Tapisserie dial in a new smoky tone. The 18-karat rose gold model contrasts with a smoky grey tone, while the 18-karat yellow gold model features a smoky gold tone. The colour of the two dials is obtained by means of an electroplating bath. The smoky effect is achieved by the careful application of coloured varnishes around the perimeter of the rotating dial, further enhancing the shimmering ripple effect of the Tapisserie.

The Petite Tapisserie pattern is achieved through a complex manufacturing process based on a rare technique that is no longer taught in watch schools. It consists of hundreds of small truncated pyramids with square bases, engraved by an old guilloche copier on the thin metal plate of the dial, reproducing the pattern of the matrix. Tens of thousands of diamond shapes, whose four inner faces reflect light, are simultaneously cut into thin grooves that separate the squares in a seamless weave, creating the appearance of a tapestry. This process requires extreme dexterity and precision. Audemars Piguet fake

Original Royal Oak’s Petite Tapisserie was originally created and produced by Stern Frères, which ceased activity in 2016. At the same time, Audemars Piguet began to develop processes and technologies in-house after acquiring old guilloche copiers. In 2010, the first self-produced Petite Tapisserie dial came out of the Manufacture’s new dedicated workshop. Today, the guilloche dials of the “Jumbo” models are produced entirely in this workshop.

Both new timepieces feature matching gold hour-markers, Royal Oak hands and AP monogram – all given the original Royal Oak aesthetic. In addition, the corresponding 22-karat pink gold or yellow gold anniversary rotor can be admired through the sapphire caseback.

The first Royal Oak made entirely of gold was launched in 1977 in the Womenswear Royal Oak (ref. 8638) collection in response to growing market demand. A few months later, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” (No. 5402BA) and the so-called 35mm “Royal Oak III” (No. 4100BA) also received gold versions. Less common at the time, rose gold appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the mid-1980s before joining the “Jumbo” collection in 2006, number 15202. These two precious materials are now widely used in the Royal Oak collection.

950 Platinum
Created exclusively for AP Houses, this elegant timepiece features a handcrafted 950 platinum case and bracelet that contrasts with a smoky green dial with a sunburst pattern on the bottom. Launched last year, the auspicious combination won the prize for best “iconic” timepiece at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November 2021. The vivid green hue is achieved by adding green pigment to the protective lacquer of the dial. The smoked effect on the periphery of the dial accentuates the intensity of the color while giving it more depth.

The dial is embellished with the traditional “Jumbo” applied hour-markers, the AP monogram at 6 o’clock and the baignoire-shaped Royal Oak hands, all in white gold. They are echoed by the dedicated anniversary oscillating weight in rhodium-coloured 22-karat rose gold, visible through the sapphire caseback.

Platinum first appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the 1980s with the introduction of gold and white gold. In 1992, the first Royal Oak “Jumbo” platinum limited edition came out to celebrate the watch’s 20th anniversary. Anniversary and foundation of Audemars Piguet. Auctioned in support of the Foundation, the one-of-a-kind 39mm Royal Oak Foundation Timepiece (Ref. 14811) includes a dial featuring a model of a gold oak tree depicted by an engraver, echoing the Foundation’s mission to protect forests around the world. Other platinum limited editions followed, such as the 39mm Royal Oak Jubilee (Ref. 14802) added in 1995 with a 20-piece platinum limited edition. Over the years, these very small collections have provided manufacturers with a unique expression of the field, exhibiting a wide variety of dial designs.

The latest 2022 Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin Platinum Watch represents one of the rare 39mm models available today, made from this precious material, that has entered the Royal Oak Core Collection.