RICHARD MILLE RM UP-01: The thinnest mechanical watch

Adding a new dimension to the enduring challenge of ultra-thinness among major Haute Horlogerie brands, Richard Mille has just set a new world record in the thinnest mechanical watch category with his new RM UP-01 Ferrari.

At just 1.75mm thick, the Richard Mille RM UP-01 surpasses the thinness record set earlier this year by the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra (1.80mm). Combining the most modern design with performance, aesthetics and robustness, this new ultra-thin watch was developed in collaboration with the renowned Italian car brand Ferrari.

The RM UP-01 Ferrari is the culmination of years of work and over 6,000 hours of development and laboratory testing. This ultra-thin watch is equipped with a sturdy hand-wound mechanical movement that can withstand accelerations of over 5,000 grams.

The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari has a monolithic case made of grade 5 titanium. Its case back and bezel are satin-finished with polished bevels. The ultra-thin case is secured with 13 grade 5 titanium spline screws and 316L stainless steel wear-resistant washers, and is water-resistant to 10 meters.

This watch features a distinctive face (bezel) design. It displays the hours and minutes on the upper sub-dial. This sub-dial is topped with sapphire crystal glass. On the upper right of the dial is the balance wheel dial, protected by sapphire crystal.

On the top left you will find an integrated function selector with two positions: W (winding) and H (manual setting). The rotating crown between 7 o’clock and 8 o’clock provides two functions: manual winding movement and time setting. Both crowns are protected with black ceramic inserts to ensure water resistance and eliminate friction.

This perfect replica watches features a patented ultra-flat escapement jointly developed by Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. This new escapement with a titanium balance wheel significantly reduces the thickness of the movement while offering the same safety as a traditional Swiss anchor escapement. The new patented ultra-flat escapement eliminates components such as guard pins and safety rollers to keep the movement thin.

The hand-wound mechanical movement with hours, minutes and function selectors has a power reserve of 45 hours.

Its baseplates and bridges are made of grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and strong alloy. The hollow base plate undergoes individual and extensive verification testing to ensure that it meets stringent optimum strength requirements.

For this watch, Richard Mille has provided an ultra-thin interpretation of its signature tonneau shape. The grade 5 titanium case is just 1.75mm thick, and the beating movement inside is 1.18mm thick.

The 23-jewel hand-wound extra-flat movement measures 41.45mm long and 28.85mm wide. It is balanced at 28’800 vph (4 Hz).

All titanium case components of this ultra-thin timepiece are machined by the Richard Mille movement department to meet the extremely tight machining tolerances of a single micron. The Ferrari Prancing Horse logo and all references on the case are laser engraved.

The Richard Mille RM UP-01 watch is a limited edition. It only weighs 30 grams including the strap.

Greubel Forsey Introduces Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture


Greubel Forsey‘s brand style is often modern in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach that is best seen on watches with skeletonized movements on their dials. Now, the brand has reimagined its often classic movement aesthetics and combined it with a sleek, sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture.

While the architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest spinning and tilting tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with diving bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. Housed in a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, the new movement is undoubtedly inspired by its best-selling sports watch.

initial thought
When I first saw pictures of the perfect watches, my instinct was that it lives up to its name – it’s impressive and very architectural. I love the complicated form in the movement, which creates a great depth, while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved polished bridges. The details of the streamlined case are impressive, especially the sides and edges.

In fact, the architecture is a huge step forward from its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intended, how it creates a more contemporary aesthetic for the movement, while retaining the iconic elements of Greubel Forsey, Such as the huge bridge used for the canon pinion. Hold the gem in your hand or jewelry.

An element of its successful architecture is the clever and generous use of geometry in the construction of the case and movement, which now rely on more forms and planes than before.

For example, not only is the case curved on the underside for a better fit, but the sides of the case also slope inward and upward, making the bezel narrower than the back of the case. This helps reduce the perceived size of the case, a useful feature for a brand known for oversized watches.

While the architecture may be the most modern Greubel Forsey to date, it still demonstrates the brand’s understanding of high-end classic watchmaking – but with a modern twist. The movement is chock-full of details like mirror-polished bridges, but they’re made of titanium instead of traditional steel.

Successfully seamlessly combining historical and contemporary watchmaking, the architecture distinguishes itself from its often completely classical counterparts, such as Voutilainen or Ferdinand Berthoud, or ultra-modern, such as fashion Richard Mille.

Perhaps because of its unique proposition, the architecture sells for around $500,000, a respectable sum but on par with comparable models from Greubel Forsey in the past. But the architecture is unique in both design and execution, making it a far more appealing proposition than the brand’s earlier offerings.

object of time
The building is an impressive object – its scale is practically almost a pocket watch – but the format and style of its execution is entirely 21st century.

One of its most modern elements is the case, which is essentially a tall sapphire ring sandwiched between the bezel and back, both of which are titanium. The sapphire ring means the wearer has a near-panoramic view of the movement, which is certainly fitting for a movement with such depth and detail.

Notably, the sapphire ring is drum-shaped with the sides sloping slightly inward towards the bezel. This makes the bezel about 2mm smaller than the case back, adding to the visual and technical complexity of the case.

As with the other 24-second tourbillon variants, one of the details worth investigating is the high-speed tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees. The barrel consists of three vertically stacked mainsprings with a running time of up to 90 hours, divided by three o’clock Sector indicator measurement of position.

But the highlight is of course the movement. The movement that forms the dial landscape does not use any large bridges or plates on the front. Instead, all moving parts are held in place by multiple bridges, giving the movement a highly technical and sophisticated look. Not only the number of bridges creates the appearance, but also the size of some of them.

Equally impressive is that all bridges are actually highly polished titanium, an alloy that is more challenging to mirror finish than steel. But Greubel Forsey goes a step further: some bridges, such as those of the barrel, are arched and rounded, a new boom for the brand.

The barrel and tourbillon are shown on the front, and the back is basically the bottom plate of the movement. The plate covers most of the back, although part of the gear train is exposed. While the plate is large, the details on the back are far from basic.

Finishing is impeccably executed as it is up front. The top of the plate is frosted, the bevel is mirror polished, and each jewel is set in a gold sleeve. One of its most refined features is the tourbillon’s lower bridge, which is brushed concentrically – and of course, all its edges are hand-chamfered.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture

Diameter: 47.05mm (strap) and 45mm (bezel)
Height: 16.8 mm
Material: Titanium and Sapphire
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Tourbillon 24-second mechanism
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator and tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 windings/hour (3 Hz)
: Manual winding
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Rubber strap, titanium folding clasp

The first all-ceramic minute repeater in history! HUBLOT Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ceramic Watch

The 2022 Horological Miracle Exhibition has just ended. Hublot launched the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ceramic Watch. With two black and white ceramic bracelets, it is equipped with the self-made HUB8001 movement that won the GPHG Best Timekeeping Award. The acclaimed cathedral gongs deliver an ultra-clear tone that transcends the limitations of ceramic materials for precise delivery. At the same time, combined with the tourbillon device, it shows Hublot’s excellent watchmaking technology in the field of advanced watchmaking with double complications.

The Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon ceramic watch comes in black and white, with an 80-hour power reserve and a water-resistance depth of 30 meters. It is available in limited quantities worldwide.

Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ceramic Watch Diameter 43mm, Ceramic Case / MHUB8001.H1.RH Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon Manual Winding Movement / Time Indication, Minute Repeater, Tourbillon / 80-hour power reserve /Waterproof to 30 meters.

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, said: “The Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Tourbillon Ceramic is the first all-ceramic minute repeater in the history of watchmaking and is equipped with a tourbillon mechanism. The minute repeater tourbillon device is launched for the first time in the bracelet watch, symbolizing a new milestone for Hublot in high-end watchmaking, and more creative works that break through the field of watchmaking will be launched in the future.”

Due to its own physical properties, ceramic materials are extremely difficult to process finely and have not been fully used in minute repeaters. Traditional watchmaking used to be able to use only a few sporadic components such as crowns or bezels, at most push rods. At the same time, ceramic coloring must be done with extremely high precision during the firing process in order to obtain a perfectly uniform and full color. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the waterproof performance of the movable sliding rod of the minute repeater, and to accurately transmit the clear and powerful sound quality through the ceramic case, which are also many challenges in the manufacturing process.

Through the sapphire mirror, the tourbillon escapement and minute repeater of the HUB8001 hand-wound mechanical movement are clearly visible. Time setting function and classic tourbillon mechanism (with 13.6mm diameter cage, one rotation per minute). In addition, the bridge design on the side of the movement dial ensures the structural stability of the tourbillon operation. Cleats, ratchet cams and springs, racks and hammers, gongs and snails, frames, gears, jeweled bearings, screws, etc., the precise assembly of 319 parts is the decorative element that constitutes a unique aesthetic. discount replica watches

Franck Muller Vanguard Glacier watch

Admittedly, it’s been a while since I got along with Franck Muller’s staff seriously. The Swiss watchmaker is a modern-day legend, while the Franck Muller Group is a collection of luxury brands that includes Backes & Strauss among others. In the past, the group was larger and included brands such as Rodolphe, Pierre Kunz and Martin Braun. Today, Franck Muller himself and co-founder Vartan Sirmakes continue to manufacture watches at the Swiss “Watchland” headquarters outside Geneva. Today, I’ll take a look at Franck Muller’s difference that represents the modern side of the brand. This watch is the Franck Muller Vanguard Glacier from the newer Vanguard collection.

Founded in 1991, Franck Muller as a brand is known for a few things, including their popular Cintrée Curvex cases, as well as some extremely complicated watches. The brand often likes to call itself a “complication guru.” This timepiece is relatively simple, providing only the time and date, but the design is complex and sophisticated, which I find very appealing.

I’m quick to admit that the Franck Muller Vanguard collection didn’t appeal to me until I saw it in person and wore it on my wrist. In the computer-rendered image, the Pioneer looks both bland and hard at work. In a sense, some might say that about the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex watch. Wear any of these models on your wrist and you’ll have a completely different experience — at least, I did.

The Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex collection starts with a tonneau case, which is probably one of the few tonneau cases on the market that I like. Others will include those made by Richard Mille. It’s an old design dating back to the 1920s, but Franck Muller has made it hot again. In fact, I would even go so far as to say that Franck Muller was the first “fashionable” watch brand of the modern watch era. Just (in some cases) fall victim to their own success and face the same issues most other luxury brands face today in marketing and distribution. Compared to the others, I think Franck Muller has been quieter, choosing to keep a low profile and remain silent until they have a solid strategy. At least, they have a lot of interesting timepieces.

I don’t recommend understanding what it’s about by reading the Vanguard series on Franck Muller’s website, because that won’t tell you much. In fact, it’s a great example of how this type of writing doesn’t have much to explain but can take up space on a luxury brand’s website. My take on Vanguard is that it’s just a modern take on the design that made Franck Muller such a popular brand in the first place. Say what you think about some people who have worn the brand, or the ostentatiousness that the brand is known for not everyone likes…but essentially, the core of the “Frank Muller look” has been done well , until now, has really been better captured by others when it comes to their classic Cintrée Curvex look.

That being said, consider the Franck Muller Vanguard collection to take a classic Art Deco look and make it feel more modern. This includes the case and dial – which apply Arabic numerals, as well as the painted markers you see on more traditional Franck Muller timepieces. Then you have this case, which is also a Vanguard trunk, flatter and more ergonomic than the Curvex case. It sits nicely on the wrist, and the right choice of colors and materials results in a bold and elegant look without sacrificing style legibility. Note the compass markings on the inner flange ring – I think it’s for style. Better than another tachymeter scale – that’s for sure.

This special edition of the Franck Muller Vanguard is a reference to the V 45 SC DT AC.GL Vanguard Glacier – famous for the special PVD coating treatment on the steel case and the use of a white rubber strap with matching dial trim. Note that this is a rare steel Vanguard watch (due to the special PVD treatment), but most non-gold watches are titanium. The case is steel and measures 44mm wide, 53.70mm high and only 12.8mm thick. The curved Vanguard case is paired with an integrated rubber strap for a comfortable fit. Visually, the look of the strap continues into the case with a clever look that makes the case appear to be sandwiched between the straps. For a higher end look compared to straight rubber,

Design wise, the overall look has a modern “bold” that will appeal to some and repel others. That’s okay, because hardly a watch made by Franck Muller is designed to have universal appeal. For someone who likes to show off, these watches do a great job…if you don’t like showing off that way, their timepieces probably won’t appeal to you. Again, don’t fully judge any of these watches until you put them on your wrist. I was personally pleasantly surprised.

Inside these three-hand Franck Muller Vanguard watches is its FM 0800 automatic movement, which operates at 4Hz (28,800 bph) and has a power reserve of 42 hours. I don’t believe these are in-house movements (Franck Muller confirms these are modified base Swiss ETA movements), but in other Franck Muller watches they certainly have their own movements. Movement provides time and date (displayed at 6 o’clock). There is no exhibition caseback, I think there should be a watch. This makes more sense than writing “Master of Complications” on a watch with a less complicated mechanism. The Franck Muller Vanguard Glacier itself is not a limited edition, but it is an individually numbered watch with a serial number on the case back.

Franck Muller cheap makes no shortage of variations for each of their popular timepieces. In addition to offering a range of Vanguard models (from this three-hand automatic to chronographs, and even some tourbillons), each model appears to be available in a range of versions (most of which aren’t even on the Franck Muller website, by the way) . This culture of “prudent information” is part of the brand’s unique identity, and one of the reasons why Frank Muller underperformed in the information-hungry internet age.

An interesting “shiny bronze” applied PVD treated steel case mixed with a white hue gives the Franck Muller Vanguard Glacier a fun and interesting look, but there are many other versions available. It’s not cheap, but its look is perfect for the Franck Muller brand and the next generation interested in the brand. Then again, this isn’t a brand for conservative types at all, but the range of talent the brand has, along with their many technical accomplishments means that Frank Muller could be a brand to watch again (or a first).

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu II

The partnership between Hublot and Sang Bleu, a creative and design studio owned and operated by Swiss tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Büchi, is now in its seventh year. To commemorate the occasion, the partners have created three highly scratch-resistant Hublot Unico Big Bang Sang Bleu II watches in a Plescia-Büchi design. The geometric pattern of the tattoo is transferred to the watch design.

The first watch is presented in Magic Gold. Gold is a well-known malleable and scratch-prone precious metal, but Hublot has mixed it with ceramic to create Magic Gold, a proprietary 18k gold alloy. The second is green pottery (painted pottery is another feature of Hublot), and the third is black pottery. Each is a Hublot Unico chronograph movement and is available in limited editions: Magic Gold , Black Magic Ceramic and Green Ceramic.

The Hublot collaboration is fascinating. The 42-year-old company approaches the artists it collaborates with differently. It is hard to imagine that a top watchmaker with 18th century ancestry could easily replicate this experience.

Maxime Plescia-Buchi is involved in the production of watches and is also an artist and designer. A graduate of the prestigious Cantonal School of Art in Lausanne, he brought an instantly recognizable style to his tattoos and is probably best known for Kanye West tattoos. The tattoo artist’s drawings are transferred to the watch – to the 3D shape of the dial and the case itself.

The indelibility of a tattoo is one of its main qualities, so there is some connection between the tattoo design and the material of the watch, as invariable as ceramics or magic gold. These watches are designed to look the way they are for years to come.

Specifications Hublot Big Bang Unico Sang Bleu II

Reference Magic Gold: 418.MX.1103.RX.MXM22 ; Black Magic : 418.MX.1103.RX.MXM22; Green Goblin: 418.GX.5207.RX. MXM22
Frame 45 x 16.5 mm, gold, ceramic. Water resistant to 100 meters.
Clock face Gold, black, green.
Strap Rubber Sang Bleu Foldover Clasp
Mechanism Automatic, Caliber HUB 1240 Unico Chronograph. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph. 72 hours of power reserve. Frequency: 28,800 times/hour