RICHARD MILLE RM UP-01: The thinnest mechanical watch

Adding a new dimension to the enduring challenge of ultra-thinness among major Haute Horlogerie brands, Richard Mille has just set a new world record in the thinnest mechanical watch category with his new RM UP-01 Ferrari.

At just 1.75mm thick, the Richard Mille RM UP-01 surpasses the thinness record set earlier this year by the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra (1.80mm). Combining the most modern design with performance, aesthetics and robustness, this new ultra-thin watch was developed in collaboration with the renowned Italian car brand Ferrari.

The RM UP-01 Ferrari is the culmination of years of work and over 6,000 hours of development and laboratory testing. This ultra-thin watch is equipped with a sturdy hand-wound mechanical movement that can withstand accelerations of over 5,000 grams.

The Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari has a monolithic case made of grade 5 titanium. Its case back and bezel are satin-finished with polished bevels. The ultra-thin case is secured with 13 grade 5 titanium spline screws and 316L stainless steel wear-resistant washers, and is water-resistant to 10 meters.

This watch features a distinctive face (bezel) design. It displays the hours and minutes on the upper sub-dial. This sub-dial is topped with sapphire crystal glass. On the upper right of the dial is the balance wheel dial, protected by sapphire crystal.

On the top left you will find an integrated function selector with two positions: W (winding) and H (manual setting). The rotating crown between 7 o’clock and 8 o’clock provides two functions: manual winding movement and time setting. Both crowns are protected with black ceramic inserts to ensure water resistance and eliminate friction.

This perfect replica watches features a patented ultra-flat escapement jointly developed by Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. This new escapement with a titanium balance wheel significantly reduces the thickness of the movement while offering the same safety as a traditional Swiss anchor escapement. The new patented ultra-flat escapement eliminates components such as guard pins and safety rollers to keep the movement thin.

The hand-wound mechanical movement with hours, minutes and function selectors has a power reserve of 45 hours.

Its baseplates and bridges are made of grade 5 titanium, a biocompatible, highly corrosion-resistant and strong alloy. The hollow base plate undergoes individual and extensive verification testing to ensure that it meets stringent optimum strength requirements.

For this watch, Richard Mille has provided an ultra-thin interpretation of its signature tonneau shape. The grade 5 titanium case is just 1.75mm thick, and the beating movement inside is 1.18mm thick.

The 23-jewel hand-wound extra-flat movement measures 41.45mm long and 28.85mm wide. It is balanced at 28’800 vph (4 Hz).

All titanium case components of this ultra-thin timepiece are machined by the Richard Mille movement department to meet the extremely tight machining tolerances of a single micron. The Ferrari Prancing Horse logo and all references on the case are laser engraved.

The Richard Mille RM UP-01 watch is a limited edition. It only weighs 30 grams including the strap.

Greubel Forsey Introduces Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture


Greubel Forsey‘s brand style is often modern in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach that is best seen on watches with skeletonized movements on their dials. Now, the brand has reimagined its often classic movement aesthetics and combined it with a sleek, sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture.

While the architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest spinning and tilting tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with diving bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. Housed in a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, the new movement is undoubtedly inspired by its best-selling sports watch.

initial thought
When I first saw pictures of the perfect watches, my instinct was that it lives up to its name – it’s impressive and very architectural. I love the complicated form in the movement, which creates a great depth, while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved polished bridges. The details of the streamlined case are impressive, especially the sides and edges.

In fact, the architecture is a huge step forward from its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intended, how it creates a more contemporary aesthetic for the movement, while retaining the iconic elements of Greubel Forsey, Such as the huge bridge used for the canon pinion. Hold the gem in your hand or jewelry.

An element of its successful architecture is the clever and generous use of geometry in the construction of the case and movement, which now rely on more forms and planes than before.

For example, not only is the case curved on the underside for a better fit, but the sides of the case also slope inward and upward, making the bezel narrower than the back of the case. This helps reduce the perceived size of the case, a useful feature for a brand known for oversized watches.

While the architecture may be the most modern Greubel Forsey to date, it still demonstrates the brand’s understanding of high-end classic watchmaking – but with a modern twist. The movement is chock-full of details like mirror-polished bridges, but they’re made of titanium instead of traditional steel.

Successfully seamlessly combining historical and contemporary watchmaking, the architecture distinguishes itself from its often completely classical counterparts, such as Voutilainen or Ferdinand Berthoud, or ultra-modern, such as fashion Richard Mille.

Perhaps because of its unique proposition, the architecture sells for around $500,000, a respectable sum but on par with comparable models from Greubel Forsey in the past. But the architecture is unique in both design and execution, making it a far more appealing proposition than the brand’s earlier offerings.

object of time
The building is an impressive object – its scale is practically almost a pocket watch – but the format and style of its execution is entirely 21st century.

One of its most modern elements is the case, which is essentially a tall sapphire ring sandwiched between the bezel and back, both of which are titanium. The sapphire ring means the wearer has a near-panoramic view of the movement, which is certainly fitting for a movement with such depth and detail.

Notably, the sapphire ring is drum-shaped with the sides sloping slightly inward towards the bezel. This makes the bezel about 2mm smaller than the case back, adding to the visual and technical complexity of the case.

As with the other 24-second tourbillon variants, one of the details worth investigating is the high-speed tourbillon inclined at 25 degrees. The barrel consists of three vertically stacked mainsprings with a running time of up to 90 hours, divided by three o’clock Sector indicator measurement of position.

But the highlight is of course the movement. The movement that forms the dial landscape does not use any large bridges or plates on the front. Instead, all moving parts are held in place by multiple bridges, giving the movement a highly technical and sophisticated look. Not only the number of bridges creates the appearance, but also the size of some of them.

Equally impressive is that all bridges are actually highly polished titanium, an alloy that is more challenging to mirror finish than steel. But Greubel Forsey goes a step further: some bridges, such as those of the barrel, are arched and rounded, a new boom for the brand.

The barrel and tourbillon are shown on the front, and the back is basically the bottom plate of the movement. The plate covers most of the back, although part of the gear train is exposed. While the plate is large, the details on the back are far from basic.

Finishing is impeccably executed as it is up front. The top of the plate is frosted, the bevel is mirror polished, and each jewel is set in a gold sleeve. One of its most refined features is the tourbillon’s lower bridge, which is brushed concentrically – and of course, all its edges are hand-chamfered.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24-Second Architecture

Diameter: 47.05mm (strap) and 45mm (bezel)
Height: 16.8 mm
Material: Titanium and Sapphire
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Tourbillon 24-second mechanism
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator and tourbillon
Frequency: 21,600 windings/hour (3 Hz)
: Manual winding
Power reserve: 90 hours

Strap: Rubber strap, titanium folding clasp