To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the birth of the fake Royal Oak, the Swiss haute horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet is pleased to present the latest generation of the 39mm Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin watch (ref. 16202), which is equipped with the Manufacture’s new self-winding ultra-thin Movement, Calibre 7121. The collection includes four models in stainless steel, platinum, and 18-karat rose and yellow gold, materials that have played a major role in transforming the Royal Oak into an iconic collection. These four timepieces also feature a Royal Oak “50 Years” oscillating weight that matches the tone of the case. The new “Jumbo” watch pays homage to 50 years of Royal Oak’s design innovation with its refined contrasts, materials, colours and dial animations.
The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin model (ref. 16202) features the new self-winding movement Calibre 7121 and a range of dial designs, while paying homage to the aesthetics of the original watch.
Caliber 7121
contemporary history
For the first time since 1972, the ultra-thin Royal Oak “Jumbo” features the new self-winding hours, minutes and date movement, Calibre 7121, which marks the debut of the new “Jumbo” reference 16202. This mechanism replaces the Calibre 2121, first introduced on the Royal Oak in 1972, the thinnest automatic movement with a central rotor and date display (3.05mm), and it will be retired at the end of 2021. The new movement is 3.2mm thick and has been specially designed and produced by Audemars Piguet engineers and watchmakers to fit the ultra-thin 8.1mm “Jumbo” case without altering its aesthetics and thickness. In addition, the drive lever is now equipped with a quick date corrector.
The birth of the new Calibre 7121 took five years of development, and thanks to a completely new structure, it has more power than its predecessor. Its larger barrel gives it more power, making it more precise over longer periods of time. It also features a modern central oscillating weight mounted on ball bearings, which utilizes two reversers developed in-house to ensure bidirectional winding. Its balance wheel is fitted with inertia blocks that have been inserted directly into the balance wheel to avoid unnecessary friction. Additionally, the Calibre 7121 features a patented, ultra-thin, low-energy date setting mechanism.
In keeping with the tradition of fine watchmaking, the Calibre 7121 features refined Haute Horlogerie decorations such as “Côtes de Genève”, “tire signatures” and circular graining, which can be admired through the watch’s sapphire caseback.
The new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ultra-thin watch features a dedicated anniversary skeleton oscillating weight in 22-karat gold, engraved with the “50 Years” logo and engraved with Audemars Piguet’s signature. To do this, the oscillating weight is matched to the colour of each case – a practice usually reserved for complicated timepieces. Similar to the case, the oscillating weight is alternately satin-finished and polished-chamfered.
The “50 Years” oscillating weight will be installed on the Royal Oak Anniversary models throughout 2022.
A tribute to the original watch
The stainless steel “Jumbo” version retains the aesthetics of the original Royal Oak from 1972. The stainless steel case and bracelet are hand-brushed and polished and chamfered to complement the watch’s signature Petite Tapisserie dial and Bleu Nuit Nuage 50 (“Night Blue, Cloud 50”) hue. fake watch uk
The dial’s Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 colour was originally developed by Geneva-based dial maker Stern Frères. The blue hue is obtained by dipping each dial into an electroplating bath. While the recipe of the mix is important, both duration and temperature are critical. If the craftsman removes the dial too early, it will turn purple, and if it is removed too late, it will turn black. Then apply a thin layer of varnish and a few drops of black (n°50) to the dial to protect it. The term “nuage” refers to the clouding effect of black droplets entering a protective liquid varnish. Today, the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 shade is achieved in-house by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) to ensure a more even color across the range.
Similar to the 1972 Royal Oak, this new “Jumbo” model retains the original baignoire or “bathtub”-shaped indexes and hands, allowing a luminescent material to be injected for optimum legibility. The dial also retains the polished gold-plated AP monogram at 6 o’clock and the words “AUDEMARS PIGUET AUTOMATIC” printed at 12 o’clock. The “SWISS MADE” indicator that replaced “SWISS” around the mid-1980s is still at 6 o’clock, with SWISS and MADE on both sides of the hour markers to balance the dial.
Unlike the original, however, the sapphire caseback allows you to see the new ultra-thin movement and dedicated anniversary oscillating weight, here in rhodium-coloured 22-karat rose gold to match the colour of the watch’s steel case and bracelet. echo.
pink gold and gold
The new “Jumbo” collection includes both rose and yellow gold models, both featuring the trademark Petite Tapisserie dial in a new smoky tone. The 18-karat rose gold model contrasts with a smoky grey tone, while the 18-karat yellow gold model features a smoky gold tone. The colour of the two dials is obtained by means of an electroplating bath. The smoky effect is achieved by the careful application of coloured varnishes around the perimeter of the rotating dial, further enhancing the shimmering ripple effect of the Tapisserie.
The Petite Tapisserie pattern is achieved through a complex manufacturing process based on a rare technique that is no longer taught in watch schools. It consists of hundreds of small truncated pyramids with square bases, engraved by an old guilloche copier on the thin metal plate of the dial, reproducing the pattern of the matrix. Tens of thousands of diamond shapes, whose four inner faces reflect light, are simultaneously cut into thin grooves that separate the squares in a seamless weave, creating the appearance of a tapestry. This process requires extreme dexterity and precision. Audemars Piguet fake
Original Royal Oak’s Petite Tapisserie was originally created and produced by Stern Frères, which ceased activity in 2016. At the same time, Audemars Piguet began to develop processes and technologies in-house after acquiring old guilloche copiers. In 2010, the first self-produced Petite Tapisserie dial came out of the Manufacture’s new dedicated workshop. Today, the guilloche dials of the “Jumbo” models are produced entirely in this workshop.
Both new timepieces feature matching gold hour-markers, Royal Oak hands and AP monogram – all given the original Royal Oak aesthetic. In addition, the corresponding 22-karat pink gold or yellow gold anniversary rotor can be admired through the sapphire caseback.
The first Royal Oak made entirely of gold was launched in 1977 in the Womenswear Royal Oak (ref. 8638) collection in response to growing market demand. A few months later, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” (No. 5402BA) and the so-called 35mm “Royal Oak III” (No. 4100BA) also received gold versions. Less common at the time, rose gold appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the mid-1980s before joining the “Jumbo” collection in 2006, number 15202. These two precious materials are now widely used in the Royal Oak collection.
950 Platinum
Created exclusively for AP Houses, this elegant timepiece features a handcrafted 950 platinum case and bracelet that contrasts with a smoky green dial with a sunburst pattern on the bottom. Launched last year, the auspicious combination won the prize for best “iconic” timepiece at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in November 2021. The vivid green hue is achieved by adding green pigment to the protective lacquer of the dial. The smoked effect on the periphery of the dial accentuates the intensity of the color while giving it more depth.
The dial is embellished with the traditional “Jumbo” applied hour-markers, the AP monogram at 6 o’clock and the baignoire-shaped Royal Oak hands, all in white gold. They are echoed by the dedicated anniversary oscillating weight in rhodium-coloured 22-karat rose gold, visible through the sapphire caseback.
Platinum first appeared in the Royal Oak collection in the 1980s with the introduction of gold and white gold. In 1992, the first Royal Oak “Jumbo” platinum limited edition came out to celebrate the watch’s 20th anniversary. Anniversary and foundation of Audemars Piguet. Auctioned in support of the Foundation, the one-of-a-kind 39mm Royal Oak Foundation Timepiece (Ref. 14811) includes a dial featuring a model of a gold oak tree depicted by an engraver, echoing the Foundation’s mission to protect forests around the world. Other platinum limited editions followed, such as the 39mm Royal Oak Jubilee (Ref. 14802) added in 1995 with a 20-piece platinum limited edition. Over the years, these very small collections have provided manufacturers with a unique expression of the field, exhibiting a wide variety of dial designs.
The latest 2022 Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin Platinum Watch represents one of the rare 39mm models available today, made from this precious material, that has entered the Royal Oak Core Collection.