One of the best things that have happened in the past two years is my close friendship with a gentleman who asked to remain semi-anonymous for the purpose of this story because he is a collector. skeleton watches
Thanks to the recommendation of Auro Montanari, we were able to have dinner together in Singapore, and it hit it off. My friend is tall, elegant, and likes relaxed Italian tailoring, dressed in an irresistible way for a truly fashionable man. He is not only one of the most important watch collectors in the world, but also sells two of the most iconic watches in the world-Rolex ref. 6062 “Bao Dai”, and Patek Philippe reference steel. 1518 achieved 11 million Swiss francs in 2016-helping Aurel Bacs and Phillips become outstanding auctioneers and high-end antique watch auction houses in the new millennium. To say that the gentleman set a high watermark on the clock when he was by his side is perhaps one of the most understatement in history.
For the purpose of this story, we will call him H. H provides me with advice on watches and tailors from time to time, and I am always happy to receive these suggestions. So I am waiting with a certain curiosity for his arrival at the Patek Philippe Watch Art Exhibition held in Singapore last year. Never disappointing, H showed up with an excellent platinum Patek Philippe reference. 5970 is engraved on a “brick” bracelet with Breguet numbers. Of course, this is interesting because there is no conventional production version of the iconic Lemania 2310, CH27-70 driven perpetual calendar chronograph manufactured by Patek Philippe. In fact, H’s watch used to belong to the person who best introduced Breguet numbers into the Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph: Eric Clapton.
In fact, these indexes have become the iconic themes of Clapton’s special customized watches, which fully demonstrate his taste and understanding of Patek Philippe’s history. Because since Patek Philippe first introduced the perpetual calendar chronograph in the references. In 1941 and 1518, there was no perpetual calendar chronograph equipped with Breguet digital dials. The Breguet numbers simply reappear on the reference dial. 5170 chronograph, and later ref. 5370 split-second chronograph. This dial is in the most coveted retro chronograph ref. 130 and reference. 1463, and their minute and second version, reference. 1436 and reference. 1563. The Breguet digital dial is generally regarded by collectors as the most beautiful variant of these models, adding a very considerable premium to the value of the watch.
Therefore, it is absolutely reasonable that the shrewd Clapton would ask for these numbers on his one-of-a-kind watch. We have seen that Breguet numbers are usually limited to the 12 o’clock position in the references. 3970 and reference. 5004 watch, but why?
Well, the case size of these watches is relatively small, only 36.7 mm, so the space on the dial is already limited. Now add the fact that Clapton always orders watches with a speedometer, which is a reference for regular production. 3970 and reference. There is no 5004 watch, and the available space on the dial is greatly reduced. By the way, the tachymeter is a good inclusion because it also quotes references. 1518 and reference. 2499 The first and second generation watches, this is the most collectible Patek Philippe perpetual calendar chronograph ever. However, once you add the Breguet 12 and the speedometer, the available space is only enough for the baton marker, or, in the case of Clapton, the genius application of point markers. discount watches
Why do I think this is a blow of genius? Because if you look at Patek Philippe vintage chronographs, such as ref. 130 and reference. In 1463, you will see that, in general, these dots are combined with Roman marks, especially the index at 12 o’clock in Rome. But this unusual combination of Breguet 12, dot markers and speedometer is the most beautiful dial combination ever made in my opinion.
Once collected by CBE Eric Clapton, a Patek Philippe rose gold watch. 3970 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with silver-plated tachymeter panel and applied Breguet numerals at 12 o’clock.
Once collected by CBE Eric Clapton, a Patek Philippe rose gold watch. The 5004 Perpetual Calendar Dual-Second Chronograph with a special black tachymeter panel and Breguet numerals at 12 o’clock; this watch is currently the permanent collection of The Hour Glass.
Hollywood super agent Michael Ovitz (Michael Ovitz) was obviously inspired by Clapton in his special watch. He basically got the same watch, but with a Roman 12 o’clock hour marker, and he added luminous hands and markers, which fell into the minute track due to space constraints.
Patek Philippe must also like these dials, because they use the Eric Clapton configuration for reference. 3970 watches are five rumored works for the 2015 London Watch Art Exhibition. Despite the configuration they chose — rose gold with black dial and Breguet 12, dot markings and white printed speedometer — they had never used a Clapton reference in any previous time. 3970, it is used in the above references. 5004 was sold in 2016 and is now in the permanent collection of Singapore’s The Hour Glass.
When Patek Philippe reference. 5970 was launched in 2004, and Clapton was suddenly provided with an exciting new possibility, which boiled down to a huge difference between the 40mm ref. 5970 and 36.7 mm reference. 3970/5004: Available dialing space. referee. The 5970 offers more dial space than its predecessor, which means that even if the watch is already equipped with a beautiful bold speedometer as standard, Clapton can commission a watch with a full set of Breguet digital time scales. (When I say “full”, I mean 1, 2, 4, 8, 10, 11, and 12, because the sub-dials of the watch encroach on the space normally occupied by the 3, 5, 6, 7, and 9 indices.
And that’s exactly what he did-but this time, he ordered more than just a watch, but a set of four references. In the 5970s, all were equipped with Breguet digital dials and matching metal brick bracelets. This was one of the most coveted special order upgrades. It is important to understand that against the historical background of the perpetual calendar chronograph, Patek Philippe has never sold a “brick” bracelet separately, but only as part of a very important customer’s special order. In fact, it is only with reference. 5270 in 2018 and reference. 5204 In 2016, these bracelets entered the regular production lineup. But the point is, in the context of 2006, you must be The Man to order a watch with a brick bracelet; you must be a legend to order a watch with a special dial; you must…well, basically Eric · Eric Clapton ordered four referees. 5970 watches, all with Breguet numbers and “brick” bracelets.
Because I have the opportunity to check and photograph this amazing reference. 5970 Close up, I decided to make this story around it. I was shocked by how amazing it was and the fact that Clapton seemed to really love it. If you look at the ref conditions. 3970s and references. 5004 is sold at Phillips, and those look relatively unworn. Another interesting thing is the Breguet number used in Clapton’s references. The 5970s is completely different from the one used on his ref. 3970 and reference. 5004 watches.
You can clearly see the Breguet number on the reference. The 5970 is taller and thinner, while smaller watches use more compact, thicker, and more square fonts. I can’t think of someone cooler and more suitable than my good friend H to own this masterpiece, and I am very happy to know that it will eventually be completed by him.