Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G

The 5740/1G perfectly showcases the modern complications of best Patek Philippe and demonstrates the etiquette known and loved by all connoisseurs of fine watches.

Since we’re talking about Nautilus, it’s hard to miss the recent headlines. It has been confirmed that the Nautilus 5711/1A directly from Patek Philippe HQ has been discontinued. Yes, you understand what I mean. Patek Philippe will stop manufacturing the coveted Nautilus 5711 from steel. (Although the rose gold version is still in production).

As predicted, the already sky-high prices rose further and entered the stratosphere of the gray market. If you think the demand for the 5711 is crazy, then the discontinuation of the 5711 will only make it more popular. Those on the waiting list may be out of luck if they have not received a call announcing its arrival. The only option left is to acquire it on the secondary market. Six-figure stainless steel sports model.

Patek Philippe is expected to release the 5711/1A replacement in Watches & Wonders in April 2021. There are rumors that Patek Philippe will not replace the 5711 with a newer steel version, but will use a larger 42mm case size titanium successor.

However, the focus today is not 5711. The focus is on its complicated brother, the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G, which, in my opinion, is the longest Nautilus has slept since its debut.

5740/1G perfectly demonstrates the exquisite craftsmanship of Patek Philippe: thin, bold, complex, perfect and balanced.

Ultimate Nautilus, period
The Gerald Genta design (Royal Oak and Nautilus), although an outsider when it was first introduced in the 1970s, is one of the most iconic watches on the market today.

In the early 2010s, Nautilus had not launched a large complication watch, while Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak perpetual calendar and large complication watch were a big success.

At Baselworld in 2018, Patek Philippe’s response to the 5740 released surprised many people. After timing, calendar and timekeeping, the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G is currently the most complicated Nautilus in the family.

But when you think about it, Patek Philippe’s launch of the first complication in the Nautilus series makes perfect sense. After all, despite the hype surrounding the steel sports watch, please don’t forget that Patek Philippe is best at Grand Complications, not Nautilus.
This Nautilus Perpetual Calendar is low-key and unassuming, harmonious, rare and luxurious.

When I first saw this watch in a reporter’s photo, I knew it would be a large-scale modern Nautilus acquisition (this is if I have dough, of course buy one). Of course, it is unconventional, but Patek Philippe combines two important components into the 5740-the shape of the Nautilus case and the 240 Q movement.

Despite its complexity, the Nautilus 5740/1G is still loyal to the original concept designed by Genta, without degradation or interference with the original design. The final result of the 5740/1G is one of the most classic designs ever, and it complements the typical Patek Philippe movement.

Patek Philippe’s QP module Calibre 240 Q
QP (Quantième Perpétuel-French Perpetual Calendar) is part of the highly traditional “Holy Grail” complication produced by Patek Philippe, together with the double rattrapante chronograph, tourbillon and minute repeater.

The QP module Calibre 240 Q is an ultra-thin movement created in the 1970s. The 5740 is the same as the movement in the Ref 5940 and has been upgraded with many modern features, such as the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring. Calibre 240 Q is powered by a miniature rotor made of 22k gold, and is engraved with the Patek Philippe Calatrava cross logo and the iconic Côtes de Genève pattern.

If you don’t know, this is the thinnest perpetual calendar currently produced by Patek Philippe (only 8.42 mm thick), and it’s not even a formal watch. For a sport full of such complexity, this is an amazing feat. Like all Patek Philippe’s works, the movement has a series of exquisite finishes, including the chamfering and polished edges of the plywood.

The iconic perpetual calendar in the Nautilus case
The reference model 5740G is a solid 18k white gold Nautilus with a recognizable QP layout on the dial, which displays the month, day of the week, date, leap year, moon phase and 24-hour period. Although the complications are new, this watch is Nautilus through and through-it has a classic blue dial and horizontal ribs, luminous application markers and hands, and a mix of brushed and polished finishes that give the watch so much vitality .

The moon phase complication only deviates from the actual position of the moon by one day every 122 years. The corrector button of the calendar is located symmetrically on one of the lugs and the “ear” of the case.

Part of the charm that 5740 shares with its Nautilus siblings is the framed dial with porthole aperture, which provides an attractive alternative to the ubiquitous round window. With a 3-6-9 dial layout, the 5740 feels balanced and surprisingly not too busy. Compared with 5712, the dial is definitely more symmetrical.

50 blues

Compared with the photo, the light blue PVD ​​coated dial is more attractive physically. The impressive metallic blue is lighter than the gradient blue on the steel Nautilus, making it very attractive in all kinds of lighting. The blue on the dial changes from light metallic blue to dark navy blue, depending on the ambient light and angle.

The gradual sunburst pattern on the dial is similar to the 40th anniversary limited edition Nautilus series. The rod-shaped hands and white gold applied hour markers are treated with Superluminova.

The Nautilus design we adore
The case is identical to the coveted 5711 in terms of case shape and proportions. They could have followed the case size of the 44mm chronograph 5976/1G made for the 40th anniversary, but luckily they did not. The fact that the watch has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of only 8.32 mm is shocking.

As a solid precious metal watch with an integrated bracelet, this means that it will be heavier compared to its steel siblings, but in my opinion, this is a plus point. If you have Steel Nautilus on hand, you will understand what I mean.

As expected, the execution quality of the case and bracelet is beyond doubt, and the 5740G opens a new folding clasp. The one-piece bracelet combines a highly polished central link and satin polished side links. It adopts a new folding clasp design with four independent clasps to prevent accidental loosening of any of the two clasps. open.

Final thoughts
In the esoteric world of fine watchmaking, we are all grateful for the presence and integrity of the watch etiquette. Traditions are preserved and found in most of the brands we love, and there is no tendency to belittle craftsmanship in some crude expedients (with some exceptions of course).

Although fake Patek Philippe still offers traditional-style formal watches, modern timepieces full of modernity have inspired innovation in the watch industry. Patek Philippe’s ownership goes beyond the functions assigned and invites its owners to focus on details and unparalleled craftsmanship.

5740 combines casual sports style with technical exquisiteness, showing the best in the high-end watch industry. The case is slender and luxurious, sturdy and durable. It is the perfect watch for you to wear and appreciate its beauty every day.

Any Patek Philippe collector or watch enthusiast will be impressed by its charm. This is a slim timepiece equipped with oversized complications, a self-winding movement and unparalleled finishing (finishing). This fascinating timepiece is a model of contemporary design, but retains the traditional craftsmanship of the independent Geneva brand.

Model: Nautilus Perpetual Calendar
Reference number: 5740/1G-001
Movement: Calibre 240 Q, hour, minute, 24-hour dial, perpetual calendar with month, day, date, leap year display and moon phase, 38-48 hours power reserve
Case material: 18k white gold, diameter 40 mm, height 8.42 mm
Dial color: blue, applied baton and Arabic numeral hour markers, luminous hour markers
Water resistance: 60 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated platinum bracelet

Astronomical clarity platinum

Astronomia is the epitome of ultra-high-end watchmaking in the 21st century, and is also a globally recognized symbol of Jacob & Co’s watchmaking expertise. With its unprecedented bold concept and full mechanical structure, Astronomia is the world’s first, surpassing the impressive horological achievements, and is regarded as an outstanding interdisciplinary engineering achievement.

Astronomia Clarity highlights the essence of Astronomia in the purest way: it presents this unparalleled cinematic sculpture through the unrestricted use of sapphire crystal (including the entire case back), while retaining the original Astronomia iconic 18K gold case frame. Its four-arm movement rotates and floats in this sapphire-bound space, finished and meticulously crafted, which can be appreciated from all angles. Astronomia Clarity is full of unique watchmaking solutions and adopts the best fine processing technology of high-end watches, which has won its reputation as a unique symbol in the field of high-end watches.

Exclusive astronomical movement
The four arms of Astronomia Clarity have a three-axis tourbillon chronograph organ with a watch, a hand-painted blue magnesium globe to present a spectacular view of the earth, and a unique Jacob-Cut® 1 carat diamond with 288 facets and different levels The hollow time display. This four-arm assembly can complete the rotation around the center of the watch in 10 minutes, surrounded by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal window. Another amazing feature of Astronomia Clarity is how each pair of opposed arms perfectly calculates each other’s counterweight-a testament to the unparalleled material engineering and watch movement design. By having the same weight on these opposing arms, its shaft can reduce strain and increased tension because the movement takes up different directions in space.

Three-axis tourbillon
The tourbillon was originally invented as a single-axis rotating frame, used to carry the adjustment mechanism of a mechanical pocket watch to improve timing performance, and Astronomia Clarity brought this 224-year-old invention to an amazing level of modern sophistication and complexity.

The three-axis tourbillon of Astronomia Clarity is at the forefront of modern watchmaking. The beautifully decorated frame of the three-axis tourbillon encapsulates the balance wheel, hairspring, escape wheel and many other vital components. This excellent tourbillon features its hollow frame, which rotates on three axes at the same time. It is a set of meticulously crafted components that have been skillfully assembled and fine-tuned to enable JCAM24 to maintain accurate time in its 60-hour power reserve. Jacob & Co. cheap watches

It takes 60 seconds for the first axis to fully rotate, which is a tribute to the traditional single-axis tourbillon. The second axis of rotation takes 2.5 minutes to complete, and the third axis of rotation is achieved by the 10-minute four-arm rotation of the entire movement assembly of Astronomia Clarity. When designing with cutting-edge ultra-modern technology and timeless horological traditions, this gives people a bold new view of how the tourbillon works.

288 Faceted Jacobian Cut Diamonds
The Jacob-Cut diamond was originally a larger rough diamond. First of all, you must find a rough diamond that is large enough. The purity, clarity and color must be the highest quality inside and outside, without any inclusions. If they start cutting the diamond and find inclusions, the entire diamond will be destroyed.

Next, the diamond is cut by a machine into a round shape close to the final diamond in size.

Then, the gem cutter shapes the gems by hand, cutting each individual facet (288). This must be done slowly and carefully, because the stone must be perfectly round and symmetrical. The danger is that the stone will become rectangular instead of round. To be used in the Astronomia series, the Jacob cut diamond must be completely round and weigh exactly the same as the other three satellites (time display, three-axis tourbillon, and magnesium globe).

During this process, if the gem cutter applies a little too much pressure when adding facets, too many diamonds will be cut, and the ball will eventually be smaller than the required diameter. The cutting process requires at least two weeks of concentration and hard work.

To make the final 1-carat Jacobs cut diamond, with 288 facets, more than half of the initial rough diamond will be cut.

The complexity of hand-cutting 288 facets and ensuring that everything is symmetrical and that the diamond is absolutely round is what makes the Jacob & Co. diamonds used in the Astronomy series so special.

Magnesium Earth

The globe is made of blue lacquered magnesium alloy with rose gold continents to ensure weight consistency, as all four satellites must have exactly the same weight. The earth rotates in 30 seconds and revolves around the dial in 10 minutes.

Case and crystal
Astronomia Clarity’s case has a diameter of 50 mm and a thickness of 25.45 mm, between the highest point of its particularly curved front sapphire crystal and the lowest point of the case. The Clarity case is made of 18K white gold and sapphire crystal, and the top and case back add to the viewing experience-you can enjoy the spectacular movement inside without hindrance. replica watches review

Dial and hands
Astronomia Clarity’s time display sub-dial is driven by a very small differential system. When it rotates with the four-arm platform of the movement across the front of Astronomia, it always remains level and clear. The Roman numerals on the hollow dial are hand-engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hand-finished hands are presented in gun-blue metal.

At first glance:
Iconic gravity three-axis tourbillon

50 mm 18K white gold and sapphire crystal Clarity case, sapphire crystal case back

All four satellites keep turning their dials for 10 minutes

Turn 288 Jacob cut diamonds in 30 seconds

Magnesium ball rotates in 30 seconds

The unique differential always keeps the time displayed in the correct 12/6 direction, no matter where it rotates

Arched and curved anti-reflective sapphire crystal

Unique crownless design; wrap and set a pull-out bow on the back of the watch

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ITEM NUMBER: AT120.30.AD.SD.CBALA

Movement: Manufacture Jacob&Co. Manual Winding JCAM12; Diameter: 40mm; Height: 17.15mm; Material: Titanium; Sapphire Barrel Bridge; Components: 365; Power Reserve: 60-Hours; Frequency: 21’600 vib/h (3 Hz); Jewels: 42; System: Gravitational Triple Axis Tourbillon; Finishing: Plate and Bridges: Hand Angled and Polished, Flank Draw, Circular Graining, Polished Sink, One Sapphire Bridge; Polished Screws; Barrel: Circular Graining; Pinions: Conical Pinions; 4 Mechanical Ball Bearing Devices; Flat Balance Spring.

Functions: Hours, Minutes Dial Rotating in 10 minutes on the Central Axis, Patented Differential Gears System; Spherical 288 Facets Jacob-Cut White Diamond, Weight: 1 carat; rotating in 30 seconds on 2 axes; Magnesium Lacquered Globe Rotating in 30 seconds on 2 axes; Gravitational Tourbillon Cage Rotating on 3 axes: 1st Axis: in 60 seconds, 2nd Axis: in 2.5 minutes, 3rd Axis: Central Axe in 10 minutes

Case: 50mm; Thickness: 25.45mm; Material: 18K White Gold; Sapphire with Double Anti-reflective Treatment; Case Back: Sapphire with Double Anti-reflective Treatment Gold Metallisation; Bows: Winding and Time-Setting via 18K White Gold; Lugs: 80 Baguette White Diamonds Invisibly Set (≈ 6.10 ct.); Crystal: Unique Domed Sapphire with Anti-reflective Treatment; Water resistance: 30m.

Dial & Hands: Dial: Titanium Dial, Polished and Angled, Lacquered Indexes; Hands: Hand Finished Blue.

Strap & Clasp: Alligator; Clasp: 18K White Gold Folding Buckle.Total Carat Weight: 80 Baguette White Diamonds (≈ 6.10 ct.).