Stricto Sensu, high power reserve or tourbillon are not complications. Complications were defined as additional function rather than improvement in HMS function. Greubel Forsey luxury watch
Aside from the flimsy power reserve and the excellent work of the builders, Steven Fauci and Robert Grubel never added complexity to their horological cathedral. Even the quadruple or double tech tourbillons don’t bring any extra functionality, despite their excellent accuracy (CF’s victory in the Chronometry competition).
The GMT, broadly named, reveals a complexity whose plumage’s interest is inversely proportional to the sobriety of its song.
This watch is the next step in the three-dimensional work that Greubel Forsey has pursued so far.
Classic elegance tends towards ultra-flat cases, and GF always goes against the trend with very chunky models. GF’s pursuit of precision by tilting the tourbillon greatly affects the thickness of the case.
Internally, the main discussion had to focus on how to make optimal use of these volumes, something almost never seen in watchmaking.
Digression: Maybe GF should overhaul their design (like the “Histoire de Tourbillon 3”, a watch produced by Harry Winston in collaboration with GF’s design office Complitime). Because the classic round case is offbeat compared to the iconoclastic design of the GF movement.
So, to get up to speed, GF had to apply their outstanding talent in 3D design to their new work.
This GMT pays off with a giant globe made of anodized titanium.
Now, of course, electroplating isn’t very glamorous. However, comparing electroplating to a chemistry class on this world map is akin to comparing the work of a microsurgeon to that of a veterinarian.
The globe (13mm diameter) is engraved with precision drill bits, while the continents are covered with a protective coating. Then, the exposed area, the ocean, is attacked by the acid. The parts are then coated with several coats of electroplating to produce these magnificent seas of lacquered blue.
A related technology used in this 24-second tourbillon, remember HW Opus VI:
Mounted on its south pole axis, this mini-Earth rotates counterclockwise like our planet in 24 hours.
A pusher at 11 o’clock advances the time zone while displaying it at 11 o’clock, while a disc on the back of the case displays the 24 time zones as well as summer and winter times.
Contrary to white cities, black cities do not have daylight saving time.
Summer time is on the central ring, while “standard” time is on the outer ring.
Undoubtedly, this device takes time to get used to, which shouldn’t be a problem for the lucky owner of this beauty. Discount watches
Based on its layout, the disk is somewhat reminiscent of the Pirata GMT from Cuervos y Sobrinos, a piece more travel-friendly than many GMT watches.
Here, without searching for Gogol, who knows Astana, Apia or F. de Noronha?
The overall design uses more concentric circles than ever before; of course, the device resembles a planetary gear, and features Earth at its peak. The power reserve indicator is at 3 pm, the second time zone is at 10 o’clock, while the world time is of course displayed between 6 and 8 o’clock, indicated by the rotation of the earth. The case measures 43.5 x 16mm, but it’s more bulky than the Luminor’s 44mm, as its aperture and thickness appear to be only 45mm. Indeed, this watch is not for lovers of fine ultra-thin watches, in addition, the twist of the 25° inclined tourbillon and a very fast 24 seconds. The spin reminds us that dreams have become reality.
Off topic: Like most of GF’s products, the case has a hole on one side that allows the Earth to be seen through the clear sapphire.
Now, let’s imagine that the globe is covered with polarized glass on the dial, which allows light to go out but not in; light only comes in from the sides, so the earth will be covered in the same way the sun’s rays illuminate the earth illuminate.
When one cannot increase the surface area any further, one adds volume, as is the case with buildings (especially those in New York, whose designs are one of the watchmakers’ main sources of inspiration).
From replica MB&F to Greubel-Forsey to Hautlence, independent watchmakers have changed the design of complications and displays by adding height as an extra dimension in their quest for updates.
With this GMT, their first three-dimensional watch with a complication, GF has reached a turning point in its evolution, at least as important as Invention 1; Complications are reinterpreted in new dimensions, and they can create new standards in watchmaking.