Greubel Forsey GMT rose gold

Greubel Forsey GMT rose gold 5N movement / white gold case on body and wrist

Open your eyes and appreciate true ultra-high-end watchmaking. Greubel Forsey clearly defines the very best that watchmaking can produce: bold design, uncompromising attention to materials, superb execution and the hand-processing of all individual pieces, mechanical innovation and a constant quest for extreme precision . But even for those of us tortured observer journalists, wearing and wearing a watch like this is always impressive. This is a Greubel Forsey GMT Rose Gold 5N Movement/Platinum Case in Flesh and Wrist.

Greubel Forsey GMT is no stranger to us at Monochrome-Watches (and neither should you), as we’ve covered it and dealt with it several times (eg here or here). But then again, when I put on a watch, I’m always happy to have so much attention to detail and movement on my wrist. Unless you’re a retailer or billionaire of the brand, you certainly won’t be wearing Greubel Forsey on your wrist very often (unfortunately, that’s not to say you probably never will). However, it’s still a difficult watch brand to understand because of the entry-level watch, the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Second Vision. Why these crazy prices? Well, of course there is an explanation, but it requires a high level of education in watches. Don’t try to explain this watch to your cousin from the Midwest…he certainly won’t get it – who cares, Greubel Forsey isn’t designed for a mass product.

Let’s talk about movement and function first. As you can see, the dial of the Greubel Forsey GMT is very busy (like most other cheap Greubel Forsey watches – the separation of the indications is a kind of hallmark of the brand – look at the Greubel Forsey QP à Equation, for example). So the dial is busy at first, but its display is far from incomprehensible (the watch’s large diameter and the large opening of the dial allow for fairly large subdials). Let’s list the indications on the front (because there’s more on the movement side): the local hours and minutes in the main sub-dial are at 12, the seconds hand in the sub-dial that crosses the main dial is at 2:30, the power reserve indicator is at 3, 24-second tilting tourbillon at 5, earth indicating world time zone at 8, home time subdial at 10. Note that it’s not that complicated to read. The hands and markers are large, with strong contrast, and the display is very clear.

Turn the watch and you’ll see…not what you expected. There are no visible gears, wheels, levers, but mostly simple bridges and discs showing universal time, represented by 24 major cities, each in a different time zone. The latest sign is as functional as it is beautiful: the lighter sector identifies cities where both summer and winter time regimes apply. Another thing you can notice is this gold wheel engraved with a 7-spoke star, which actually creates a connection between the globe in front and the universal hour ring – meaning both rotate at the same time.

Completely developed and produced by Greubel Forsey, this movement has a wide range of flavours. As mentioned, there are multiple indications, but there are also some technical advantages. All indications can be controlled by the crown, with the exception of the GMT hand, which can be adjusted in one-hour increments via a pusher at 10 o’clock. It also features a 24-second tourbillon that tilts 25 degrees. Why is there such a speed and why is the tourbillon tilted? Typically, the tourbillon rotates once in 60 seconds (while creating a natural and direct indicator of the small seconds) and sits on a flat axis – check out our tourbillon page and you’ll see this is the case in most cases. As a reminder, the tourbillon is a device used to counteract the negative effects of gravity on the adjustment mechanism. The balance, hairspring and escapement are placed in a cage that rotates (usually) every 60 seconds, so the adjustment mechanism is never in the same position (so gravity has less of an effect on accuracy).

Here, using Greubel Forsey GMT, we have a 24-second tourbillon that is not on a flat axis. Since the goal of the tourbillon is to counteract gravity with constant movement, you’ll easily understand that the faster you spin, the better the result. Then, applying a 25 degree angle to the shaft also tends to give the adjustment mechanism more position, and a balance wheel that is never parallel to the ground (gravity has a greater effect on the adjustment mechanism). Combining these two properties creates an ultra-strong anti-gravity device that will (theoretically) improve the watch thanks to a more stable rating (the technology that allowed Greubel Forsey to win the International Timekeeping Competition by an extremely high score in 2011). of precision and incredible precision, equipped with a Greubel Forsey double tourbillon 30 degrees).

So this watch is technically impressive. It has a real complication and a pure dedication to precision (don’t forget that precision has been a major area of ​​watchmaking research for centuries). Impressively, however, this Greubel Forsey GMT is on a mechanical basis, and there must be more reason to justify its price. The answer lies in details, execution and completion. An example: the tourbillon bridge. A piece of stainless steel intricately shaped with a handcrafted (stunning) black polish (called “poli au noir” or “poli cloqué” in French because the surface becomes almost black when viewed from certain angles. This is something that only a trained hand can get, after hours of work), a few inner corners (sharp, sharp chamfers. Something a machine can’t do), polished screw slots, gold kardon….. Well, this small and single piece sums up the quality of work done by Greubel Forsey.

However, such details apply to the entire watch. Bridges made of German silver (maillechort), matte finish (again only handcrafted), 5N rose gold plated, large, shiny polished bevels, polished screw slots, hot blue screws (heads black polished and inverted corner slits), hand-engraving… All the elements of the movement (gears, wheels, pinions) are also finished, not a single part is directly machined. We can also notice the polished titanium bridges of the tourbillon cage or the dial made of solid gold.

Then there are the decorative parts (as opposed to the technical ones): the case, the hands, the dial… As you can see, the globe at 12 is not flat, but 3D and engraved with raised continents. It is made of titanium, and as you can clearly see in the previous article, it is done with great precision. The hands are made of white gold and mirror-polished. The dial is made of solid gold with a grained center and a circular brushed finish on the periphery. Again, very haute horlogerie here.

Finally came this case, again a rather complicated shape. It’s curved, it’s open (with a sapphire aperture next to the globe), and it’s made of platinum with a hand mirror finish (hand satin on the sides). Applying such a finish is not easy given the curves of the lugs or the complex shape of the bezel. The Greubel Forsey GMT is not a petite watch, it measures 43.5mm and 16mm in height. Made of platinum is also heavy. However, it is still wearable. Also, we have to understand that practicality is not the main goal of this watch. Just like a Ferrari Enzo or Pagani Zonda aren’t the easiest cars to use in a city center or in a traffic jam, this watch isn’t an everyday beater (of course, if you can afford to own a Greubel Forsey every day, you should get as many as you can. wear it).

The Greubel Forsey GMT Rose Gold 5N Movement/Platinum Case replica watches for sale is a lesson in watchmaking, both technically and in execution. Completion is huge. We are on another planet. Every micron of a watch is a feast. It shows what watchmaking can produce without constraints and price not a major consideration. Some would say it’s outrageous or useless. To a certain extent, they were right. However, as with a €1,000,000 McLaren P1 or LaFerrari, it’s irrelevant for rational reasons. It’s here because some people can afford it and some people can produce it. Are the prices completely reasonable? maybe not. do we care? Not exactly, mainly because there will always be possible clients, and because it makes some people work and keeps the know-how. This is a dream machine…we all need to dream.