Chopard Alpine Eagle 41mm 18k Rose Gold Watch

In terms of value and functionality, steel wins, but wearing gold has a feeling that non-precious metals can’t match. Swiss Chopard has impressed the watch industry and larger collectors with the recent release of the Chopard Alpine Eagle timepiece collection. We first talked about the Alpine Eagle in steel, and then here I went to experience the Chopard Alpine Eagle in two-tone 18k rose gold and steel firsthand. Today I researched the beautiful “Alpine Eagle Large” watch in full 18k rose gold: Chopard reference 295363-5001.

The “beautiful” 18k rose gold Alpine Eagle 41mm watch certainly is. Chopard, a watch and jewelry maker, combines the talents it has accumulated in the Alpine Eagle, combining in-house mechanical watchmaking with (masculine) jewelry design and finishing. Sharp angles and finely polished or brushed 18k rose gold metal surfaces reflect light, making the entire composition appear brighter than it really is.

The watch industry doesn’t really have a good reputation for watches in this category. Sometimes they are called “sports lifestyle watches”, sometimes they are called “watches with integrated bracelets”. Both terms may be true, but neither really explains why enthusiasts around the world are drawn to other members of this product category, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Vacheron Constantin Overseas and at least a dozen new Models have hit the market in the past few months.

While the majority of the design language in many of these timepieces began in the early 1970s with famous designers like Gerald Genta, that’s not the real reason these timepieces are so popular. Rather, they are popular because they offer men a modern, masculine jewelry watch-wearing experience once dominated by a handful of players (including Rolex and its popular Datejust and Day-Date collections) .

Men don’t really like the idea of ​​wearing jewelry, and if these items are even labeled jewelry in a retail setting, it’s going to be hard to sell. The solution to this pervasive bias is to give best watches a practical value (to tell the time), and to dress them up as non-identity items (such as pilot instruments, diving timers, and racing chronographs). These two elements seem to be enough to dispel the notion that what most men wear is jewelry and see these items as something with a different meaning. While the psychology behind selling precious metal tools to men works, the reality is that they wear jewelry (which is nothing to be ashamed of).

Ask most women why they wear jewelry, and surprisingly few of them will say their purpose is to be seen (even if it’s a coincidental benefit). Instead, most women will tell you that their jewelry makes them feel good. Men too, and wearing gold just makes you feel good.

I’m not entirely sure why, but the weight of the all-gold watch combined with the color of the metal delights our brains. A timepiece with a gold case and matching bracelet is completely different from a steel bracelet, and this effect cannot be replicated by a watch with gold-plated metal (eg PVD coating can give steel a convincing 18k gold appearance). Also true is that , for most consumers, the price of wearing a real gold watch is probably more about the intrinsic value of wearing gold – which means that no matter how many people agree that gold feels great, not many consumers are willing to spend the money these days That’s it. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that it’s so simple and common for you to look as if wearing gold (with colored non-gold materials).

But we’re not talking about most people or common things here. We’re talking about exclusive luxury and fine timepieces. In this case, the appreciation for all gold watches is real, and many members of the community know implicitly that real gold not only feels good, but is on par with cheaper alternatives. Chopard’s current gold watch is doing very well.

Let’s be clear, Chopard is no stranger to gold watches, but the company has only recently introduced men’s jewelry-style watches on integrated bracelets. A product is just a gold watch. The other is a piece of gold jewellery for men, which also happens to mark the time. There is an important difference between the two.

I also have to say that the design of the Alpine Eagle watch has grown stronger on me since the watch was originally introduced. I’d say I’m looking forward to seeing more of Chopard’s play on the bezel screws, and I’d love to see other styles of dial design – but these are logical areas where Chopard can play in order to build on what’s good Alpine Eagle Platform.

With the advent of the Chopard Alpine Eagle Chronograph, the 41mm wide Alpine Eagle Large is no longer the largest in the Alpine Eagle collection, but I do think it’s a very refined and versatile size for a heavy-use wrist. Despite the flanks, the watch doesn’t get a lot of wear and tear and I’d say the Alpine Eagle still gives a nice feel even on small to medium wrists. The case is 41mm wide and just 9.75mm thick, water-resistant to 100 meters and features a screw-down crown. Above the bezel is a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal.

On the back of the case is the window for the movement, which is an in-house manufactured Chopard calibre 01.01-C. While this movement doesn’t represent the absolute best finish Chopard has to offer, it’s well-finished and by no means a slouch. The self-winding movement certified by the COSC Observatory operates at a frequency of 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 60 hours. It has time with date window.

For these so-called “one-piece bracelet” watches to be respected, there must be as much engineering behind the bracelet as the case. Watch fans will no doubt appreciate the “aligned” screws on the bezel of the Alpine Eagle case, but they should also appreciate the extremely tight tolerances on the bracelet components. This is impressive in steel, but also in 18k rose gold. It’s actually easy to adjust the size of the bracelet using the screws on the back of the links, and the overall smooth articulation of the links of the bracelet feels really nice on the wrist.

I’m happy to report that despite the tight links on the bracelet, this watch is not an epilator. This happens sometimes and is absolutely disastrous for the marketability of the timepiece. It can be seen that Chopard not only spends a lot of time making the Alpine Eagle bracelet beautiful, but also designed it to be comfortable and functional. Closing the bracelet is done with a butterfly deployment clasp. It worked extremely well and never opened on my wrist, but it does lack an official locking mechanism, which means you probably don’t want to wear this watch for actual physical activity. Where the bracelet wins the most is offering a sleek and stylish tapered and contrasting polished bracelet look, while being visually dissimilar to those produced by competitors in the fine watchmaking space.

This special 18k rose gold Alpine Eagle watch features an “Aletsch blue” dial with rose gold indexes and hands. The Chopard Alpine Eagle dial is an interesting character because of its deep brushed and swirling texture. This texture is painted in several colors, including this lovely dark blue option. It complements the warmth of rose gold.

Relatively few people find themselves able to afford an all-gold watch, just for the hell of it. Gold watches are often personal reward items, and many times the person who acquires them wears them almost exclusively. This means that many potential consumers of all-gold Alpine Eagle watches are likely to give these watches a lot of wrist time. So there are few ways to feel good like wearing a gorgeous gold watch. If you do, having a tasteful and well-constructed product like the Chopard Alpine Eagle can be a very good idea.

Chopard luxury further promises that all its gold developments will be “ethical”. It’s a complex promise, not just a marketing term. The idea is that ethical gold comes from a fair supply chain, including the way companies treat their employees and the environmental impact of gold sourcing and refining. I’m not sure today’s consumers are ready to pay a hefty premium for ethical gold (or gemstones, for that matter), but the trend is definitely heading in that direction. More importantly, given that wearing a gold watch has conveyed a public message about conspicuous consumption, being able to claim that gold itself does no harm is indeed a moral view in the wearer’s favor. I am sorry to say goodbye to the Alpine Eagle in 18k rose gold, but Chopard needs its support. At the time of writing, it is only one of three such works in the United States. This means that the pieces are actually unique and beautiful.

New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Skeleton

A charming skeletonized version of AP’s new flying tourbillon movement.

By now, it should no longer be a secret that Audemars Piguet’s famous Royal Oak has turned 50 this year, and the brand has unveiled a new Jumbo Slim 16202. The brand has made serious efforts to commemorate the occasion with a new range, new model and slightly modified exterior with special rotors. One model that combines all three elements is the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-winding Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, a tribute to the first self-winding tourbillon watch: the 1986 Audemars Piguet Calibre 2870.

When it comes to revamping the overall look of the Royal Oak, that of course means only minor touches. This is not to say that we are suddenly witnessing a radical departure from design and architecture. Following novelties such as 16202 and Jumbo Openworked 16204, the overall shape is preserved, yet refined. The changes are minimal at best and sometimes difficult to identify unless you have both old and new references handy. However, as we saw with last year’s Royal Oak Offshore update, it brings a more coordinated collection.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Flying Tourbillon Skeleton has a 41mm wide and 10.6mm thick stainless steel case. As always, it has the signature octagonal shape with an octagonal bezel and functional fasteners (secured from the back), so there’s nothing new to report here. These changes include wider polished chamfers on the bezel and caseback, the latter of which is more flush with the mid case for improved ergonomics. online men watches

Considering this is a skeletonized version of the Royal Oak, there is no real dial. Instead, all we see is a sloping inner flange finished in slate grey with a minute track and applied platinum indexes. The time is indicated by a pair of white gold hour and minute hands with a luminous central ridge. For the rest, you can watch the movement up close and unobstructed. The rhodium-toned components display a striking symmetry, and of course, the flying tourbillon sits proudly on the lower half of the “dial”.

Powering this powerful new version of the Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s new in-house calibre 2972​​. It is an upgraded version of the Calibre 2950, ​​introduced in 2018 as part of the Code 11.59 series. This was one of Audemars Piguet’s first flying tourbillon movements, and it made the transition to the Royal Oak family in watches like the 26530PT and 26530TI — basically a closed-dial version of the watches we see today.

Most striking is the large flying tourbillon in the lower half, suspended only from the back. Incorporating the full hollow structure, more details of the whirlwind escapement can be seen. This is a fairly complicated movement with 271 components, including 27 jewels. It runs at 3Hz or 21,600vph and has 65 hours of autonomy when fully wound. Everything is done to Haute Horlogerie standards.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Flying Tourbillon Skeleton features a special 50th anniversary winding rotor, visible through the sapphire crystal. The oscillating weight will only be installed in 2022 to commemorate the Royal Oak’s 50th birthday.

Of course, this new high-end version of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak comes with the iconic stainless steel bracelet. Following the latest design evolution of the Royal Oak, the bracelet features larger polished chamfers, thinner and therefore lighter links, and tapers from the case. The AP folding clasp ensures a secure fit on the wrist.

Technical Specifications – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic Flying Tourbillon Skeleton
Case: Diameter 41mm x H10.6mm – Stainless steel case, polished and polished – Octagonal bezel with 8 white gold screws – Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back – 50m water resistance
Dial: Rhodium-plated skeleton movement – White gold applied indexes and Royal Oak hands with luminous coating – Slate grey inner bezel.
Movement: Calibre 2972​​, Internal – Automatic – 31.5mm x 6.84mm – 271 parts including 27 jewels – 65 hour power reserve – one minute flying tourbillon beating at 21,600 vibrations/hour – hours, minutes, tourbillon flywheel
Bracelet: One-piece stainless steel bracelet with brushed and polished finish – AP triple folding clasp
Reference: 26735ST.OO.1320ST.01

Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte PAM01135 Monopulsante chronograph, black and blue version.

With its Monopusher chronograph, Panerai replica integrates the chronograph function into its powerful Luminor design in a very elegant way. This unique Panerai chronograph performance has been issued in a limited edition, combined with a black ceramic case and a dark blue sandwich dial. Meet Panerai Luminor Chrono Monopulsante GMT Blu Notte PAM01135.

This new limited edition chronograph features a matte black sandblasted ceramic Luminor case. The single button used to start, stop and reset the chronograph is located at 8 o’clock, in contrast to the iconic crown protector. The majestic 44 mm x 19.55 mm case has a dark blue dial with a sunburst finish. It uses a sandwich structure, equipped with white Super-LumiNova Arabic numerals and hour markers, with green fluorescence. The waterproof rating of the watch is 100m.

Turn the best copy watch over, and the screw-in exhibition watch back cover uncovers the manual winding P.2004 movement. P.2004 was launched in 2007 and is the brand’s first self-produced chronograph movement. It has a diameter of 13 inches 3/4 and a thickness of 8.2 mm. It has a column wheel and a vertical clutch. It runs at 4 Hz and provides a healthy 8-day power reserve on three barrels. It also has a Greenwich Mean Time function and a linear power reserve indicator.

PAM01135 is matched with a dark blue calfskin strap that matches the color of the dial and is equipped with a black DLC titanium pin buckle. The watch comes with a spare blue rubber strap.

Case: 44 mm x 19.55 mm-Matte black ceramic-Safety lock crown protector-Sapphire crystal-Sapphire crystal screw-in case back-Water resistance 10 ATM / 100M
Dial: Blu Notte, satin Soleil finish, sandwich structure, Arabic numerals and white Super-LumiNova hour markers, green luminous
Movement: Manually wound Calibre P.2004 (internal), 13¾ lignes, 8.2 mm thick, 321 components, 29 jewels, 28,800 vibrations/hour, three barrels of 8 days power reserve, hours , Minutes, small seconds, Greenwich Mean Time, 24-hour counter with AM/PM indicator, linear power reserve indicator, single-button chronograph, second hand reset
Strap: Dark blue calfskin strap, beige stitching, black DLC titanium pin buckle-extra dark blue rubber strap

「Time・Light」Machinery – A. Lange & Söhne ZEITWERK

How is an extraordinary complex device composed? Whether in the music, art or watchmaking world: this movement stands out in many ways. Every design detail shows charming charm. The overall appearance presents a unique style. The joy of owning a watch masterpiece enriches our senses, and you can continue to discover new elements that make the structure full of interest.

The ZEITWERK time machine “Lumen” 18K honey gold model is Lange’s fifth watch with a translucent dial and a luminous display. But this watch is even better, integrating three extraordinary features: including a digital time display concept equipped with a jumper device, and a novel and unique design that ensures the watch. 18K honey gold presents an eye-catching warm hue. This alloy is exclusively developed and used by Lange. At night, the luminous numbers of the “Lumen” watch are supplemented by daylight.

ZEITWERK Time Machine “Lumen” Watch 18K Honey Gold – Continuous Innovation
The 18K honey gold version of the ZEITWERK time machine “Lumen” fully proves the spirit of the A. Lange & Söhne product developers to continuously explore new areas. After all, this best luxury watch not only stands out for its novel and unique design, but also because it breaks the boundaries of traditional watches and is equipped with innovative devices.

This ZEITWERK time mechanical watch is equipped with a clear and easy-to-read large jump display, which is the same as a general digital watch. The time display is arranged from left to right. The sophisticated rotating mechanism consists of two minute discs and a large hour circle, which spans almost the entire diameter of the movement.

In addition to the technical concept, the innovative design elements of the watch are also quite revolutionary. The curved time bridge is one of the most eye-catching elements, adding elegance to the time display. It is made of black rhodium-plated German silver and complements the dark sapphire crystal glass dial.

The two barrels provide the power required for switching, and the switching node is controlled by a patented constant force escapement system, which also ensures that the balance wheel is always driven by a constant force. The 18K honey gold version of the ZEITWERK Time Machine “Lumen” is equipped with a newly developed watch factory-made L043.9 movement with a power reserve of up to 72 hours.

The button at 4 o’clock is a new design, which can switch the hour display independently, making time setting more convenient. When the button is released, the switching power is generated. Therefore, the switching process is always the same regardless of the force of the start button.

Ingenious design concept-luminous digital

The ZEITWERK Time Mechanical “Lumen” 18K honey gold model is a mechanical watch with excellent performance, which can still read the time clearly at night. In a dark environment, the numbers in the two display boxes will glow. The technical challenge behind this design is to use light energy to supplement energy for the numbers, although most of them are located under the dial.

The final solution is to use translucent sapphire crystal glass coated with a special coating.

This coating can filter out some of the visible spectrum and pass most of the ultraviolet light. The light energy in this spectrum can just replenish energy for luminous materials-making them shine in the dark. The light transmittance in the visible spectrum is reduced to the extent that the disc device can only be faintly recognized during the day, so that it will not negatively affect the clarity of reading

The word skipping device equipped with the digital display is still clear and easy to read after each switching cycle, even at night. This is because today’s digital discs can make the watch shine whenever it appears on the display device after exactly one minute. The fascinating switching loop is especially eye-catching at night.

The 18K honey gold case of the ZEITWERK time machine “Lumen” watch has a diameter of 41.9 mm and is made of 18K honey gold exclusively developed by Lange-this is the first time cheap A. Lange & Söhne has used this material to make a “Lumen” watch. This 18K gold alloy has excellent hardness and presents a unique warm luster. The power reserve indicator, the hands of the small seconds dial, and the A. Lange & Söhne pin buckle are all made of 18K honey gold. The watch is paired with a dark dial and dark brown leather strap, making the color of the entire watch particularly eye-catching.

Advanced movement

Below the avant-garde dial with the striking ZEITWERK time mechanical bridge, the 28 numbers on the three discs can be vaguely recognized. Then there is a fascinating switching cycle, with every minute as a cycle.

With a light press, at least one of the three number disks will jump forward. It locks at least one new number in the display window-as the next hour enters, a clever mechanical device pushes three discs forward at the same time.

The 18K honey gold version of the ZEITWERK Time Mechanical “Lumen” watch has an hour correction button, which makes the newly developed L043.9 manual winding movement more sophisticated and complex. Compared with the previous models, the number of movement parts is increased. To 462 pieces. The wearer can also adjust the minute display in two directions through the crown at 2 o’clock.

Through the sapphire crystal glass back cover, you can enjoy numerous switching cycles. For example, it showcases hand-carved balance and escape wheel bridges, upper chain wheel trains, and delicate perpetual bridges that can accommodate two screwed gold sleeves.

The sophisticated switching cycle is controlled by the patented constant power escapement system, which operates two important functions at the same time: on the one hand, it generates power to advance the time display of the jump character; on the other hand, the device is almost uniform during the entire running time. The power drives the balance wheel to effectively maintain the stability of the speed.

The weight balance is matched with a freely oscillating balance spring, which vibrates at a frequency of 18,000 times per hour (2.5 Hz). Other classic elements that demonstrate the outstanding quality of A. Lange & Söhne include the movement that has been reassembled and carefully modified by hand.

Explore the watch

“Lumen” watch

The name “Lumen” represents a series of extraordinary timepieces, equipped with a translucent dial that highlights Lange’s unique design. The first was the ZEITWERK time-mechanical “Luminous” watch launched in 2010, and then A. Lange & Söhne launched the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 large “Lumen” watch in 2013 and 2016 respectively, and the LANGE 1 Lange 1 large moon phase ” Lumen” watch. The DATOGRAPH large calendar chronograph power reserve indicator “Lumen” watch was launched in 2018. These four watches are all released as limited editions, which are regarded as treasures favored by collectors.

The technical challenge when developing the “Lumen” watch was to use light energy to evenly replenish energy for the luminous material under the dial. The final patented solution is to use a translucent sapphire crystal dial coated with a special coating.

The light wave transmission of visible light will therefore be weakened, resulting in a high-contrast effect, making the dial clear and easy to read. On the contrary, ultraviolet light waves can pass through to supplement energy for the numbers, making them glow through the window at night.