Manufacturing and Movement: Porsche Design Chronograph 1-1972 Edition x 911 Porsche Design 50th Anniversary Edition

Exotic cars and beautifully handcrafted timepieces complement each other like salt and pepper. They just work. In many cases, watch manufacturers tailor products to exotic automotive industries or even specific vehicles. Makes and Movements will select great products through the DuPont registry and pair them with current or pre-release watches. The diversity of vehicles and timepieces will reveal different brands and help to understand new frontiers in each industry.

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1972 Edition
Porsche Design embodies the luxury lifestyle of the Porsche brand through a range of premium clothing, accessories and timepieces. The industry started in 1972 with its Original Chronograph 1, the first watch with a black PVD treated case, bracelet and matching black dial. Porsche Design has strong ties to the world of motorsport, with a product line focused on styling and performance to ensure success on the final lap. Porsche Design is proud to celebrate its 50th anniversary with the release of the new Chronograph 1 – 1972 Limited Edition. In addition to the luxury timepieces, Porsche is delighted to commemorate this special occasion with a matching Porsche Design 911 Targa 50th Anniversary model. imitating each other on two different scales,

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 1972 Edition represents a push for the car brand, combining classic design with updated interior sports technology. The redesigned Chronograph 1 features a 40.8mm PVD case in titanium with an all-black design to help eliminate any reflections while driving. The chronograph dial layout represents the look of the Porsche 911 dashboard and perfectly showcases the many functions that the watch is equipped with. The engine that drives the new Chronograph 1 – 1972 Edition is Porsche Design’s in-house Calibre WERK 01.140, a COSC-certified movement that offers an impressive 48-hour power reserve. The titanium caseback is engraved with the Porsche Design logo, firm date and production numbers to denote the limited edition. Paying homage to its predecessor, Porsche Design has equipped the Chronograph 1 with a traditional matching PVD bracelet and folding clasp.

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1972 Edition is the perfect addition to any watch collection, as it is the history of the brand’s first product release. In a world where Porsche continues to dominate the automotive industry, this luxury watch speaks to watch lovers and car enthusiasts alike. The modern style of the iconic Chronograph 1 designed by Porsche is sure to grow in popularity and value in the future.

Porsche 911 Targa Porsche Design 50th Anniversary
The 911 is Porsche’s most iconic model, with different levels of performance and comfort throughout the generations. The Targa option on the 911 platform reimagines the sports car with an open-cab design that truly connects the driver to the open road. Porsche is delighted to celebrate the 50th anniversary of its lifestyle branch with the new 911 Targa Porsche Design 50th Anniversary, a limited production vehicle that pays homage to Ferdinand Alexander (FA) Porsche’s iconic design. The donation platform for the new partnership takes shape in the form of the 992-generation Porsche 911 Targa 4 GTS, with subtle hints to mark the milestone.

The Porsche 911 Targa 4 GTS Porsche Design 50th Anniversary Edition features a gloss black finish that mimics the design of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1, and is available with an optional Black Metallic paint code. Platinum elements are also incorporated into the exterior design, enhancing the paint and aggressive body lines of the new-generation 911 Targa. The car’s most striking choice is its satin-finished platinum Targa handlebar, which highlights its versatility as a quick-change convertible.

The limited-edition example features the same 20- and 21-inch satin-finished wheels as the Porsche 911 Turbo S, providing a light feel for driving on or off the track. It also features an exclusive “Porsche Design 50th Anniversary Edition” badge on the slats of the rear lid grille, and the “911” logo on the rear apron is black. As you step inside the 911 Targa 50th Anniversary Edition, the bespoke “Porsche Design 50th Anniversary Edition” access guard welcomes you to its sleek, minimalist layout. The cabin features Sport-Tex equipment, and the black special leather trim option contrasts with slate grey seams. A set of black and cool grey plaid sports seats create a driver-oriented atmosphere for the driver. This version comes standard with the Porsche Sports Chrono package and features a Porsche Design sub-second clock on the dashboard. The Sports Chrono clock features red small seconds, a feature inspired by the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 from 1972.

The limited-edition Porsche 911 Targa 4 GTS’s 3.0-liter twin-turbocharged six-cylinder engine produces more than 473 horsepower, managed by a conventional six-speed manual transmission. The new 911 Porsche Design Targa 50th Anniversary Edition is limited to 750 units worldwide, with a starting MSRP of €186,606. In addition to the 911 Edition 50Y Porsche Design, customers can also purchase a special edition of the new legendary Porsche Design Chronograph 1. The 50th anniversary of Porsche Design celebrates all aspects of the brand and the drive to provide a luxury experience for all.

The 911 Porsche Design 50th Anniversary is the best new addition to the garage because of the brand’s heritage as a pioneer in the sports car world. In addition to only 750 examples being produced, the value of the special edition 911 will continue as it becomes one of the most popular models in Porsche’s extensive fleet of performance cars. For owners looking to add variety from other existing anniversary models, Porsche Design offers a one-of-a-kind Chronograph 1 configuration experience to match your wholesale watches replica with the commemorative 911 Targa 4 GTS.

Hard core, interpretation of Grand Seiko’s “strongest” movement

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In 1960, Seiko replica launched the first high-end line, Grand Seiko (ie Seiko GS, Grand Seiko). By 2020, it is the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko. To commemorate the 60th anniversary, Guanlan Lion (Seiko GS) recently launched a variety of 60th anniversary commemorative styles. Including historical replicas, jewelry watches, formal watches, diving watches and many other limited models. And launched a new 9SA5 self-winding movement, used in the 60th anniversary limited edition of Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko).

Grand Seiko’s new 9SA5 movement has achieved a breakthrough in Japanese high-end watchmaking in terms of technology and decoration, reaching the new height of Japanese high-end watchmaking in automatic movements (referring to automatic three-hand movement , Excluding complication movement). And 9SA5 movement also uses a new type of escapement, the official name is “double impact escapement”. Although many media have reported on this movement, there is no further interpretation, especially the new escapement of 9SA5, so today I want to talk about this movement that represents the highest level of Japanese fine watchmaking. core. First of all, starting from the escapement, I will try my best to make technical issues easy to understand.

Crown blue lion, double impact escapement, where is the power?

It can be said that 99% of the world’s mechanical watches, from Tissot Longines to Rolex Patek Philippe, use the same escapement, called “lever escapement” (also called Swiss lever escapement). Whether it is Tissot or Patek Philippe, the overall structure of their “lever escapement” is the same.

The remaining 1% of mechanical wholesale watches copy do not use “lever escapement”, which includes “Omega coaxial escapement”, “Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement” and “Crown Lion Double Impact Escapement”. Omega, Audemars Piguet, Crown Blue Lion, these three escapements, although each has its own name and some differences in appearance, but they have the same principle and historical origin. So some people say that the “double impact escapement” of the Crown Blue Lion is very similar to the “coaxial escapement” of Omega, which is correct. (PS. The 99% and 1% I mentioned here are just a metaphor. In addition to these escapements, there are also some very very rare special escapements, such as FPJ’s double-axle escapement, Athens’ two-way escapement, etc.) .

The biggest appearance feature of the “lever escapement” is that it has a long “fork” pallet. The “Double Impact Escapement” of the Crown Blue Lion is an pallet fork but it is “horizontal” and close to the escape wheel (the same applies to Omega and Audemars Piguet). Different structures bring different operation modes to these two escapements.

Lever escapement: The fork of the balance wheel drives the pallet fork, and the pallet fork drives the escape wheel. Balance wheel fork → pallet fork → escape wheel.

Double-impact escapement: the balance wheel’s fork shoe directly drives the escape wheel, and the pallet fork only plays a locking role (since the entire escapement is close to the escape wheel, the balance wheel’s fork shoe can directly drive the escape wheel) . Balance wheel fork shoe → escape wheel.

So we can see that the power of the double impact escapement (including Omega and Audemars Piguet) is directly transmitted between the balance wheel and the escape wheel, skipping the pallet fork, the power transmission path is shorter, and the power loss is smaller. The crown blue lion “double impact escapement” and Omega coaxial escapement, Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement, have the following advantages:

  1. The power transmission efficiency is higher. The power transmission efficiency of the “double impact escapement” is 52% (including similar escapements of Omega and Audemars Piguet), while the efficiency of the “lever escapement” is 35% ( This data is derived from Audemars Piguet’s research data on escapement).
  2. Double impact escapement (including Omega coaxial escapement and Audemars Piguet exclusive escapement). The pallet fork only plays a locking role. The teeth of the pallet fork and escape wheel can be very “pointed” (lever The escapement will be more “square”), which reduces the contact area between the pallet fork, the escape wheel tooth and the tooth, reduces the friction stroke, and the friction is smaller. Data shows that the lever escapement has a friction stroke of 0.4 mm. The double impact escapement (including Omega, Audemars Piguet), the friction stroke can be reduced to 0.05 mm. This is why Omega said that the coaxial escapement can reduce dependence on lubricating oil (referring to the escapement part).

Excellent performance, but why is it rarely used?

Grand Seiko (replica Grand Seiko) “double pulse escapement”, Omega “coaxial escapement”, Audemars Piguet “exclusive escapement”, this type of escapement, they have a common “ancestor”, Chronometer escapement/Robin The escapement (the Robin escapement, born in 1791, is an improvement on the escapement of the observatory). This type of escapement performance does have advantages, but the problem is that the structure is more complex (Crest Blue Lion, Omega, Audemars Piguet, although they have the same history and technical origin, although the basic principles of each company are the same, but the design is different) .

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The Robin escapement in history is because under the historical conditions at that time, because of the poor anti-vibration ability and the difficulty of self-starting (in my impression, it needs an external force to drive it, and it is difficult to drive it with gears), so it stopped using it. . “Lever escapement” because of its simple structure and strong reliability, it eventually dominated the world until today. Most of the mechanical watches on the market, it can be said that 99% of the mechanical fake men watches use the “lever escapement”, although it is not the highest performance, but it is the most reliable along the way.

Through modern watchmaking technology, technical problems are solved. At present, both the Grand Seiko “Double Pulse Escapement” and Audemars Piguet’s “Exclusive Escapement” are used on a small scale on specific watches (Audemars Piguet is only used on a few watches such as Jules Audemars Chronometer, Royal Oak and the like Omega’s “coaxial escapement” has been widely used on all Omega watches. But old players know that Omega’s “coaxial escapement” has experienced 2500, 2500C, 2500D, 8500, 8900/8800, from 1999 to today, after more than 20 years, after several generations of evolution, it has today’s reliable and stable performance. Outstanding Omega 8 and 9 series movements. Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko) used the new “double pulse escapement” on the new 9SA5 movement this time. I think one is the discovery, exploration and innovation of watch technology, and the other is the confidence and display of its own strength.

Crown Blue Lion 9SA5 movement other main technology.

In addition to the most heavyweight “double-pulse escapement”, the Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement also uses a variety of technologies.

The Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement uses a new non-caliber weight to fine-tune the balance. At the balance wheel fine-tuning weight, the edge of the balance wheel is recessed inward, and the weight is wrapped inside the balance wheel, which helps to reduce the air resistance of the balance wheel. This design of fine-tuning the balance wheel with non-caliber weights is also used in Swiss watches, such as Breguet.

The Grand Seiko 9SA5 movement uses an end winding hairspring. Winding the hairspring on the end (also called Breguet hairspring, because it was invented by Breguet), is to lift the end of the hairspring upwards, and then fix it on the outer pile of the hairspring. The end of the hairspring that is lifted upwards, in layman’s terms, increases the three-dimensional sense of the hairspring. Through the shape of the winding on the end, the center of gravity of the hairspring is kept at the center position, which helps prevent the center of gravity of the hairspring from shifting and facilitates the travel time (general flat hairspring, The center of gravity is easy to shift). In Swiss watches, it is also often used, such as Rolex.

Grand Seiko (Grand Seiko fake) 9SA5 movement, swing frequency 36000 times / hour, power 80 hours. At the same time of high frequency, long power is maintained. The main reason is that the 9SA5 movement uses a new tandem barrel, which also reduces the thickness of the movement. The 9SA5 movement measures 31 mm and is 5.18 mm thick. The 9S85 movement that Crown Blue Lion has always used is 28.4 mm and 5.99 mm thick.

In terms of movement and decoration, the 9SA5 movement also changed the style of the previous Grand Seiko movement, adopting more independent movement splints and using a cross-type balance splint. Use more jewel bearings and roasted blue screws (47 jewel bearings). And use a huge hollow automatic rotor. The design and decoration style of the 9SA5 movement has been completely consistent with the Swiss watch movement.

Hands-on Graham Chronofighter Steel Target – a bold, aviation-inspired chronograph

Deliberately bold, masculine, with strong aviation inspiration.

If you have been looking for a bold, aviation-inspired chronograph that can leave a clear impression on your wrist, then we may only provide you with a watch. Graham Chronofighter Target transcends life and has many touches that really attract the eye. Masculine, modern, still has the iconic elements of the brand, but without the retro flavor of other series. Recently, we spent some time practicing Chronofighter Steel Target. This is our idea.

There is no doubt that small size packaging seems to be a popular trend today, which makes MONOCHROME very happy. Having said that, Graham has always been known for its larger case. The case plus a unique start/stop trigger is the brand’s signature. Of course, they are not for everyone, but Graham knows customers very well and knows what they like. As the saying goes, if it has not broken yet, why should it be solved?

Chronofighter Steel Target follows the same formula very much and has made some subtle adjustments to create an interesting and practical watch. It uses a 47 mm steel case with a black carbon quick start/stop trigger on the left side of the case, and a black rubber steel reset button on the top to provide extra grip. The rubber surface is decorated with a “Clous de Paris” pattern to give more personality. buy replicas watch

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As with all Graham Chronofighter models, the crown and timing buttons/triggers are located on the left side of the case. This is unusual for a watch intended to be worn on the left wrist, but in fact, using the thumb of the right hand feels more natural and easier to trigger the trigger. I think this is particularly useful for fighter pilots wearing heavy gloves, although I cannot say that I have tested the theory. From a daily point of view, you don’t have to worry about putting on the crown or putting on your wrist every time you bend your wrist.

What really catches the eye is the gray smoked dial, framed by a black ceramic bezel and decorated with contrasting white Super-LumiNova numbers. Although it can be viewed through the dial, the time display is still clear and easy to read, not always as simple as it sounds. The hour and minute hands are collectively displayed by large hands equipped with white Super-LumiNova, and the central seconds hand has a red tip. The running seconds are displayed on the sub-dial at 3 o’clock, and the elapsed minutes are recorded at 6 o’clock. The dial is completed by the date and date display at 9 o’clock.fake designer watches

Turn the watch over and you can see the G1747 movement, partially visible through the smoked sapphire crystal case back. This automatic chronograph based on Valjoux 7750 is equipped with Incabloc shock absorbers and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz to provide the maximum number of seconds. It can retain 48 hours of power when fully wound. The case has a water resistance rating of 330 feet and is mounted on a black calfskin quil-stitched leather strap with a steel buckle.

There are also two other versions of Chronofighter Steel Pilot, both made of black PVD coated steel.

Technical specifications-GRAHAM CHRONOFIGHTER steel target
Case: 47mm stainless steel case-carbon black quick start/stop trigger on the left side, stainless steel reset button with black rubber “Clous de Paris” high reset pattern on the left side-black ceramic bezel-round Top sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both sides-transparent smoked sapphire crystal back cover
Movement: Cailbre G1747-automatic chronograph-28,800 vph-Incabloc shock absorber-25 jewels-48 hours power reserve-hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph seconds, 30 minutes counter, date and date
Strap: Black calfskin stitched leather strap with steel pin buckle
Reference: REF. 2CCAC.B33A