August 2020: New features of the watch

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon MB&F x H Moser; old version 101 MB&F x H Moser

Speaking of watches, August is an amazing limited edition timepiece. From Piaget’s elegant mother-of-pearl and diamond Possession watches, to Omega’s new ladylike designs, here we list the most famous new products.


In the words of Tony Montana, the character of Al Pacino, “Say hello to my little friend.” It’s just that Jacob & Co’s latest work is not actually my friend, because there are only 176 Opera Scarface watches in the world, which is beyond my budget. At Tatler Asia, we hope that the new gang-themed timepiece is worthy of praise. In an interview with the founder Jacob Jacobo last year, we asked him who he wanted to design watches for. “Al Pacino,” he answered without hesitation. “Now I’m considering, I will call him. I don’t know him personally, but I know someone.” You’re welcome, collectors everywhere. Now, where did we go…

MB&F and H Moser&Cie

MB&F and H Moser&Cie jointly launched a series of futuristic watches. The founders of the two companies respectively launched the first two timepieces, limited to 15 pieces. Endeavour’s cylindrical tourbillon MB&F x H Moser uses MB&F’s iconic tourbillon movement and inclined surface, combined with Moser’s graduated color dial. At the same time, Legacy Machine 101 MB&F x H Moser showed off a suspended flying balance wheel that powers the watch when you wear it. Decide, decide…


Blancpain reinterpreted its popular 38mm “VilleretQuantièmeComplet” by increasing the complexity of the moon phases. Observed from the earth, this complexity shows the sunlit part of the moon. These new dials also have reworked hour markers and leaf-shaped hands. These watches have a stainless steel dial with a white dial or a red gold dial with an opaque dial, and there is something for everyone.

New models of independent watchmakers on display at the Geneva Watch Fair

Visually bold and mechanically unusual, independent watchmaking is at its best.

Last week, we had the opportunity to visit the well-deserved annual major European watch fair Geneva Watch Fair, which gathered 17 brands representing the entire industry. As the rise of the event fades away, let’s take a look at four watches presented by independent watchmakers. The independent watchmaking industry, marked by bold creativity and beautiful movements, is still full of surprises.

CZAPEK Antarctic Abyss Edition
Czapek’s first luxury sports watch, Antarctique, was successfully launched through subscription during the delivery period this spring. The model is powered by Calibre SXH5, which is an exquisite internal automatic movement with a micro-rotor. If the original series can be ordered within a few days, Czapek launched the Abyss Limited Edition on the occasion of the Geneva Watch Festival. Its dark blue is inspired by the deep ocean and the hand-painted dial.

This year, Bethune (De Bethune) celebrated the tenth anniversary of its special watch DB28. After introducing the beautiful DB28XP series, independent watchmakers introduced the DB28 steel wheel Saphir Tourbillon. Like the previous DB28 steel wheels, the idea is to reveal the technology and decoration of the movement as much as possible, increasing the transparency and complexity of sapphire in the form of a tourbillon. The 43 mm titanium case retains its special structure and has a circular central container on which hinged lugs are fixed. The tourbillon is positioned at the 6 o’clock position and is an eye-catching fast beater, because what we are talking about is a 30-second rotation and a frequency of 36,000 vibrations/hour (or 5 Hz).

Facts: 43mm polished titanium case – blue sapphire hollow triangle bridge – manual winding movement DB2019V5 – hours, minutes and 30 seconds tourbillon – 5 days power reserve – alligator leather strap (with pin buckle)

URWERK UR-210 final version
The Geneva Watch Fair also provides us with the opportunity to experience one of Urwerk’s most iconic watches firsthand, a super cool independent watchmaker UR-210 Final Edition. The satellite time display has drift time and three-dimensional retrograde minutes. In addition, the winding efficiency indicator (stopped/decreased/full) shows the winding efficiency of the last two hours. The final version is limited to 7 pieces and is made of stainless steel and titanium with a black matte DLC coating. It is worn on a black alligator leather strap and is equipped with a pin buckle that matches the case.

Quick facts: 53.6mm x 43.8mm steel and titanium alloy, DLC coated case-UR-7.10 movement, internal time display module-automatic winding, with winding efficiency system and turbo adjustment automatic device-black alligator leather watch buckle

Tudors Black Bay Chronograph

Fashion reporters like to talk about “trends” in watches, as if at some point in the year when the manufacturer develops new products, a competitor’s company may have held a secret meeting in the Swiss Alps and decided, for example, that 2019 is for two-tone watches. Year (not so much the odds of thousands of watches produced every year, but rather the chance of having common design features). With this in mind, we are happy to announce…2019 is the year of two-tone watches, and this trend will remain strong in 2020. A special model is Tudor Black Bay Chronograph S&G. The title refers to “steel” and “gold” and adds another highly desirable model to Tudor’s existing very desirable model series. Essentially, this is the shiny version of their Black Bay Chrono, whether it’s on a braided bracelet or a steel/gold bracelet, it looks great, right on the right, you know, kind of.

Date date 36

Last year, Rolex introduced two brand new concepts for the iconic Greenwich Mean Time (GMT): the “Pepsi” (blue and red) bezel and brown and black-both of which caused a sensation. (We designed the term “Mars Bar Bezel” for the latter, but did not adopt it.) This year, perhaps less exaggerated, Rolex delivered a larger 42mm Yacht Master, a blue and black “bat Man”. GMT version (definitely a super large version) and very cool two-tone steel and 18ct gold Sea Dweller. But our choice is the gold Day Date 36. In line with the trend of the 70s style watch, its green face and jeweled index call for retro chic, but its low-key level is not enough to make too much noise. In addition, it is also equipped with a “presidential bracelet”, and the Rolex strap is deeply loved by leaders of the world. Great energy.

Bell and Rose
V2 92

Bell & Ross (Bell & Ross) is famous for its square watches, for some time, it has been quietly making bendable retro-style round watches. Last year, we saw models of Racing Bird and Belly Tanker, both of which date back to the aviation and motorsport styles of the mid-20th century without arousing interest. This year, we chose the V2 92 in the “military” beige. This simple manual-winding automatic movement has a date in a 41 mm stainless steel case and is equipped with an elastic lanyard. This is a great “everyday” watch.

Richard Mille Felipe Massa sapphire crystal watch

Nice RICHARD MILLE Replica Watch RM 56-02 SAPPHIRE

Richard Mille was a very young luxury fake watch brand in 2005, but given the fiercely competitive atmosphere, it showed great promise to a large extent. Richard Mille pursued ultra-complexity and worked closely with the world of high-performance racing machines, quickly becoming the leader of ultra-luxury sports watches in terms of design and price. Also released in 2005 the iconic replica Richard Mille RM011 and the larger Felipe Massa (Felipe Massa) watch series.

10 years later, Richard Mille RM011 and other Richard Mille Felipe Massa (Richard Mille Felipe Massa) watches have become an indispensable part of the brand and the luxury sports watch field. As part of the tenth anniversary of the relationship between Richard Mille and racing driver Felipe Massa, the brand will release two limited edition timepieces, including this super sturdy Richard ·Miller (Richard Mille) RM056, its full sapphire crystal transparent case.

This is not the first time Richard Mille has produced a sapphire crystal case watch, nor is it the first time they have produced a sapphire crystal case Richard Mille RM056 Felipe Massa watch. In fact, the first Richard Mille watch launched in 2012 is a case made entirely of carefully ground synthetic sapphire crystal, which is the RM056 version.

Three years later, in terms of consumer cost (and exclusivity), the sapphire crystal case watch has become one of Richard Mille’s top products, each with a price much higher than $1 million . To commemorate the 10th anniversary of Richard Mille and Felipe Massa, another limited edition Richard Mille RM056 chronograph tourbillon watch will be launched.

Some thoughts on sapphire crystal as a case material. Sapphire crystal is mainly used in luxury watches as the “crystal” material on the dial. Synthetic sapphire is used because it can grow, can be transparent, can be milled (cut), and is very hard. In fact, apart from diamonds, almost nothing is harder than sapphire crystal. Hardness is important because sapphire crystals need to be scratch resistant. Because the sapphire crystal is so hard, it is also difficult to process. Processing sapphire crystal requires special cutting tools, and most sapphire crystals in watches are round.

The process used to produce sapphire crystals that fit the dial surface is different from the process used to precisely cut other shapes of sapphire (such as watch cases). A special type of CNC milling machine is used to cut sapphire crystals. My understanding is that because the material is very hard, it is necessary to change the cutting tool as metal more frequently than when using a CNC machine to cut more traditional case materials. In addition, Richard Mille (Richard Mille) claims that grinding each sapphire crystal case requires 430 hours of work, while polishing the main parts requires 350 hours of work.

A common complaint among collectors about sapphire crystal cases is that they don’t look very valuable. People often marvel at the fact that Richard Mille’s sapphire crystal case seems to be made of plastic. Indeed, Richard Mille’s sapphire crystal watches, unlike more common luxury materials (such as gold), do not convey the same direct sense of “wealth”. That being said, the touch of these watches is not cheap and provides a very smooth, refined touch (completely different from plastic).

For anyone other than Richard Mille or one of their customers, even using a rare sapphire crystal case watch is actually a rare experience. I think I am lucky to be able to handle one of these exotic watch styles. Although the price of more than one million dollars continues to surprise me, I understand very well why Richard Mille’s special sapphire crystal case watches are in the market.

2015 Richard Mille RM056 retains some fresh colors and Felipe Massa’s personal logo on the dial of the previous version. In addition to the transparent wine barrel case and hollow dial and movement, this RM056 watch is also available in blue, yellow and red. However, its core is the pinnacle of the Felipe Massa Popular fake watch series: Richard Mille (Richard Mille) caliber RM 056 tourbillon chronograph mechanical movement.

With zoom in, one can begin to understand why Richard Mille’s “wrist high-performance machine” is so priced. Although the concept behind Richard Mille watches is absolutely modern, there is a deep respect for the long-standing watchmaking tradition-some brands are keen on details, as can be seen. Although Richard Mille’s watches may not suit your taste, you can’t deny that few brands (none of them have a modern design sense) match their finishing and details.

The RM 056 movement is a unique mechanism composed of more than 500 parts. The movement is extremely complex, with a 30-minute seconds chronograph, torque indicator, power reserve indicator and tourbillon for the balance wheel and adjustment system. Watching the movement is always spectacular, it in many ways fully reflects the fascination of many people for mechanical clocks. Richard Mille (Richard Mille) limited edition RM056 10th Anniversary Felipe Massa Best quality swiss and japanese replica watches.

Richard Mille RM 11-05 self-winding flyback chronograph GMT watch debut

Best Richard Mille RM 11-05 Automatique Chronographe Flyback GMT Replica Watch

Just as hard as diamonds, cermets reappeared in the appearance of the new Richard Mille RM 11-05 automatic return chronograph GMT, while Richard Miller continued to set foot in the fascinating world of non-antimony grade materials. In essence, the brand is equivalent to the 911, which means that its price is the same as the Porsche 911 (Turbo S, please remember, the price is the same), and it keeps its original, recognizable shape while constantly evolving. RM 11-05 includes GMT in a feature-rich movement that can power it for a long time. But first, let’s talk briefly about Cermet.

Richard Mille’s character is to seek to create lighter and more durable materials. Richard Mille found a variety of carbon, metals, ceramics, and even quartz in the appearance and movement of the movement, and even allowed the brand to produce record light watches so that their wealthy customers could Being beaten in a racing car or when falling. I’m on the tennis court. Richard Mille is as tiring as the car analogy, and his relentless pursuit of car design and material performance is indeed truly comparable to supercar manufacturers. After all, its customers are more willing to bear the cost, so why not?

As the main material category, cermets are not completely new to luxury watches. Cermet is an abbreviation for the following materials: I will give you a moment to make an educated guess… Yes, ceramics and metals. When I heard about Cermet, I immediately thought of those rare Jaeger-LeCoultre deep-sea chronographs, which are famous for using a Cermet type, and which are confused with the same name Rolex watches online shop.

2,360 Vickers hardness is the so-called “gray cermet” hardness. This is what materials scientists usually call “very hard.” From a perspective, the Gray Cermet in the RM 11-05 case is six times harder than hardened stainless steel. The latter usually runs at a frequency of 390 Vickers, which is about 12 times higher than the hardness of 210kicker in 18k gold at 210 Vickers. Cermet was co-developed with IMI Group (a British-based engineering company whose name is similar to that of Bond’s employer), and its gray color is attributed to the combination of a metal zirconium matrix and high-performance ceramic inserts.

It is very difficult to heat and press these different types of materials together, and a layer must be added to make it look beautiful enough to help justify the six-digit price tag. In particular, the challenge is to remove undesirable adhesives and obtain a homogeneous whole. The physical properties of cermets make it the material of choice for bulletproof protection (if you find yourself with a companion you might be a bit armed with pickles), external aerospace fuselage components (if you extend PJ over your arm) may be sent use. Windows) and of course the brakes of the car.

The Richard Mille RM 11-05 automatic anti-fly chronograph GMT watch in Cermet’s case size is fixed together by 20 spline screws processed in grade 5 titanium alloy, the lug diameter is 50.00mm, diameter It is 42.70mm and the total thickness is 16.15mm. Match it with the trademark arched back cover, smooth strap fusion, and the unmatched feel of the Richard Mille rubber strap but never match, and you will have super comfortable wearing. I think now the brand should consider providing accurate weight measurements of watches, so that prospective buyers can choose one model based on this number instead of another model, just as they buy Superleggera cars.

Richard Mille movement RMAC3 is still a punch: it is a chronograph with a flyback function, Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) indication and annual calendar-probably all luxury watches One of the best secrets of medium complexity. The power reserve is 50 hours (+/- 10%), the operating frequency is 28,800 vph, the moment of inertia is 4.8 mg•cm 2 and the lifting angle is 53°. The barrel shaft is made of AP20 steel-just throw it away because I know this is a controversial aspect of watchmaking today.

I guess, in contrast to the luminescent materials that were smuggled into manufacturers frantically on Christmas Eve, the exquisite carbon fiber flanges filled with “approved luminescent materials” still made the project crazy. The dial is made of sapphire crystal with a thickness of 0.40mm and is anti-glare on both sides-probably the weakest link in Richard Mille’s replica watches, because this coating tends to be on the dial itself ( Instead of the outer crystal) produces a unique blue glare. I hope this is a neutral paint. If the edge of the case sapphire crystal is 0.84 mm thicker than the thickness of the center, or the bottom plate and bridge of the movement are made of wet sandblasted titanium alloy (as opposed to high-quality old brass), these slight differences can be definite.

The ultra-high-end chronograph series started from RM 011 in 2007 and has grown to the current development level with the development of RM 11-03. Its excessive design in machinery and materials has hardly reached the matching level, and it has surpassed competitors. Pricing.