Experience for yourself the new 43mm Royal Oak Offshore Watch in 2021, equipped with homemade Calibre 4404

The beast’s beating heart came from copy Audemars Piguet for the first time.

The Royal Oak Offshore is a controversial watch that has been controversial since its inception in 1993. The original Royal Oak was recorded as disliking it immediately. Its size, weight, and impeccable aggressive performance against his original design seem to range from a brilliant interpretation of the Royal Oak to a terrible near-imitation, but for many years, Offshore has remained not only the mainstay of the Audemars Piguet series, but also a An extremely versatile platform for further experiments in terms of design, materials and complexity.

However, one thing Offshore has never had before-which may surprise those who are new to fine watchmaking or who have just met Audemars Piguet-is an internal movement. On the contrary, the offshore type usually relies on the basic movement and adds a timing module. The first batch of models used Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic basic caliber (calibre 888 and 889/1) and the most recent 3126/3840, which is AP’s own internal caliber 3126, but also with a timing module. AP also used the F. Piguet 1185 movement (now Blancpain 1185, because F. Piguet has been included in Blancpain), which is an integrated ultra-thin chronograph movement, but it is also not a self-produced movement.

However, this year, the Associated Press created a new version of the Royal Oak Offshore, all using internal movements. The watch has a 42mm case with subdials at 6, 9 and 12 and the date at 3 (the layout of the original model in 1993), or a 43mm case with 3, 6, 9 subdials layout, and 4:30 The date. The 43mm model uses the 4401 chronograph movement first introduced in the Code 11.59 chronograph. The 42mm model uses the 4404, which is basically 4401, but has been reconfigured to support the subdial and date layout of the original Offshore model.

Seen next to one of the models from the 1990s-in this case, with reference to 25721SA, from 1999-the design changes are obvious. In addition to the changes in the dial layout, the modern 43mm version has more straight buttons, and perhaps most notably, the date window does not have a cyclops (although the position of the 4:30 window just indicates that Offshore is ready as always in controversy) .

However, as far as the display of the new movement is concerned, the most significant difference may be the dateless Cyclops. Due to the modular structure, the modular Royal Oak needs a magnifying glass to display the date. The date wheel is located on the basic movement. If you put the chronograph module on top, you will end up seeing the date wheel quite far behind the dial. This year’s 42mm model retains the magnifying glass, but since the movement is an integrated chronograph, you don’t actually need it (although you can make the same argument for any Rolex watch with a dated Cyclops).

Two-tone reference. By the way, the 25721SA shown above is an interesting example of how complicated the history of offshore 25 years is. This particular watch belonged to a friend and watch lover and was purchased by his father in 1999 (he is 6 feet 3 inches tall and obviously happy to finally find a watch large enough to accommodate his large frame). It is said that there are only four known references on the market, and he more or less forgot it until he found it behind his closet a few weeks ago. The bezel is rose gold.

43 mm 26420SO.OO.A002CA.01, adjacent to the extremely rare 1999 model 25721SA.

I find it extremely fascinating, but then again, when I finally got a 36mm gold Rolex Day-Date (because my friends and family never tire of reminding me, it is the ultimate grumpy old man watch), no doubt, Reference 25721SA is a powerful 90s watch. There is no doubt that as the 2000s slowly entered the 2010s and 2020s, the existence of the modular chronograph movement in AP watches seems to be more and more inappropriate. The history of AP is the most famous complexity of all fine watchmaking One of the functional manufacturers. Almost since the release of the 4401 movement, AP observers have been waiting for the movement to launch other watches besides the Code 11.59 chronograph.

The new 43mm Royal Oak is one of the two options provided by the 4401/4404, which is certainly more modern in appearance and feel. Of course, this is due to the design. Although it took 25 years, the new movement is a very welcome update to the design. At least for me, its raging weight is always slightly disappointed by the use of modular movements. With a diameter of 32 mm and a thickness of 6.8 mm, the movement definitely feels more suitable for a timepiece that is still quite large and eye-catching.

In addition to looking very fit through the back of the display, the new movement also has an overall design and layout that is very suitable for 43mm Offshore. It is clearly intended to impress the wearer, because it is a modern movement, not a nostalgic movement of watches. At this point, it was very successful.

As we discussed in the hands-on practice of the Code 11.59 chronograph, the modernity of the movement is not just superficial. This is a vertical clutch design with a 70-hour power reserve, a guide column wheel tooth profile designed to minimize friction, ceramic bearings on the rotor, and a single integrated reset hammer. There is a balance bridge instead of a balance splint, and the balance is a free spring, adjustable mass type. Fake watch for sale

Although the 42mm model may be more biased towards purists’ view of Offshore’s internal movement, I really like how the 43mm model really leans towards its more advanced design, and I give it a little edge on the 42mm model Used to maintain the original configuration of the 4401 movement, not to change it as a tribute.

The three watches shown here all have black steel dials and titanium with blue or gray dials. Titanium models make Offshore’s weight impact as low as Offshore-they are very comfortable-but the steel models with black ceramic bezels have something very beautiful, because there is no additional quality penalty for the bracelet, this may be me s Choice. After all, what is an offshore company with no weight?

For first impressions and full specifications, please refer to Jon Bues’ introductory post. The current price is: titanium gray dial; blue dial titanium; black dial stainless steel. All three models are equipped with self-made automatic chronograph 4401 type movement, flyback chronograph with time and date, small seconds. Power reserve of 70 hours, automatic winding, running at 28,800 vph, inlaid with 40 jewels. Royal Oak Offshore

URWERK UR-100 Gold Edition

The new Gold Edition is the fourth episode of URWERK UR-100, an exclusive collection of atypical timing tools inspired by the navigation of the Milky Way. The UR-100 watch is developed and produced by the Geneva watch studio URWERK. It breaks the boundaries of technology, design, instruction and function.

The UR-100 has an elongated octagonal case with three notched sides. This UR 100 is cut from a solid block made of 2N gold, and its surface is tinned, with the same light luster as the “Star Wars” robot. The top of the shell is sapphire crystal bubbles, reminiscent of the shape of the first URWERK model, and the dome houses this control center for interstellar visitors.

The UR-100’s rotating satellite displays hours and minutes. The isochronous rotation produced a miniature cosmic ballet. When hour satellites crossed 120 degrees on a bright green scale, they also displayed minutes. The bold red arrow indicates the intersection of hours and minutes, providing a unique, clear and easy-to-read intuitive time display. replica mens watches

Even when operating at low speeds, the automatic winding system will not be overloaded due to Windfänger’s adjustment of the oscillation quality: the planetary gear limits the rotor’s rotational speed, minimizes excessive winding and wear, and maximizes Reliability and service life.

Careful space-time indications on both sides of the top of the outer periphery of the dome are essential for interstellar navigation and are unique on Earth. After each of the three red minute arrows passed the number 60, they disappeared, and then reappeared on two separate kilometers scales.

The first display at 9 o’clock marks 555 kilometers of the earth traveling along the equator for 20 minutes of rotation, and the second display at 3 o’clock indicates the distance of the earth’s revolution around the sun – 35,740 kilometers for more than 20 minutes.

In order to participate in the fight against Covid-19, URWERK will auction the first gold UR-100 “Fight C-19” on the URWERK website and distribute all the funds raised to the organization that fights the COVID-19 pandemic.

technical details
Model: UR-100 Gold Edition

Satellite time; minutes; the distance to the equator of the earth in 20 minutes; the distance of the earth orbiting the sun in 20 minutes

Caliber UR 12.01 and the spiral and planetary gear transmission of the automatic winding system adjusted by URWERK’s proprietary Windfänger system
Gems: 39
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28800 VPH
48 hours power reserve
Material: Titanium Geneva aluminum satellite hour span
Aluminum turntable
Triple bridge in ARCAP

Surface treatment
Round texture, sandblasted, microblasted, strapped
Chamfer screw head
The hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova

Shell pass
Satin-finished 18k 2N yellow gold
Dimensions: width 41 mm; length: 49.7 mm thickness: 14 mm
Glass: transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM / 3 Bar)