In 1972, after Ferdinand Alexander Porsche retired from Porsche’s operations, he decided to establish a watch (and other product) design company. Since he became a designer, he not only developed the 911, but was also responsible for all design aspects of the Porsche car concept. His goal is to continue the concept of low-key, simple but efficient design, functionality and purism, and apply it to the cheap Porsche Design product line. Clear readability and reliable functions are the core values-combined with beauty. You can always find elements inspired by Porsche sports cars and racing cars. Ferdinand Alexander Porsche has used titanium for the watch case from the beginning, a material derived from the lightweight structure of racing cars.
The Porsche Design 1919 series welcomes new members. This is the 1919 Chronotimer FlybackBrown & Leather. Since most Porsche Design watches are in black or natural titanium colors (they are all titanium, but sometimes coated), this time brown adds more formal watch touch to the sporty collection. The case design is kept slim to maintain a clear dial design. This feature can even be supported by ignoring the tachymeter scale. The new movement Werk 01.200 with flyback function is a basic movement specially built for Porsche Design. It was first launched in an exclusive series in 2017.
The next novelty we checked was added to the Chronotimer series. This is the new Chronotimer Flyback special edition. That is similar to the novelty of 1919 mentioned above, but completely different in the case design. The Chronotimer series uses a tachymeter scale and a matte black titanium case-inspired by the cockpit instruments, which is more sporty. In order to strengthen the connection with the racing car and its lightweight structure, the dial is made of black carbon fiber, and the strap is made of the same leather used inside the car-even the red stitching is the same. It is also equipped with the new Werk 01.200 with flyback function. The Chronotimer Flyback Special Edition is available in mid-June.
For more excitement, Porsche Design has added two new versions to its Monobloc Actuator series. Here, we are talking about sports-watches have nothing to do with formal watches, but they are full of power. Looking at this timepiece, you can almost smell burning tires and oil dripping from the track. The Monobloc Actuator Chronotimer Flyback Limited Edition is not without reason. It is inspired by the Porsche 911 RSR racing car. The carbon fiber dial is again based on the chassis of the Porsche 911 RSR. The black details of the white and red hands on a light background are inspired by the colors of the Porsche GT team working closely with Porsche Design. It is limited to 251 pieces. Why is it such an odd number? Because the wheelbase of the 911 RSR is exactly 251 cm, this is essential for improving the weight distribution between the axles.
The second new product in the Monobloc Actuator series is the 24H Chronotimer All Black. It is basically the same as the above model, except that there is no new Werk 01.200, but a 24-hour scale and a black titanium bracelet are added. The difference between these two watches and other series is that instead of using the two standard buttons on the side of the case to trigger the stopwatch function like traditional chronographs, the chronograph function of Monobloc Actuator activates the rocker switch by a single pressure operation. Integrated in the shell. Similar to the mechanism used in the Porsche 911 RSR engine.
The new Monobloc Actuator Chronotimer Flyback Limited Edition comes with a rubber strap with Alcantara leather inlays, while the Monobloc Actuator24H Chronotimer All Black comes with a titanium strap with a black titanium carbide coating. As you know, these two watches are designed for speed lovers.
The Royal Oak Offshore is a controversial watch that has been controversial since its inception in 1993. The original Royal Oak was recorded as disliking it immediately. Its size, weight, and impeccable aggressive performance against his original design seem to range from a brilliant interpretation of the Royal Oak to a terrible near-imitation, but for many years, Offshore has remained not only the mainstay of the Audemars Piguet series, but also a An extremely versatile platform for further experiments in terms of design, materials and complexity.
However, one thing Offshore has never had before-which may surprise those who are new to fine watchmaking or who have just met Audemars Piguet-is an internal movement. On the contrary, the offshore type usually relies on the basic movement and adds a timing module. The first batch of models used Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic basic caliber (calibre 888 and 889/1) and the most recent 3126/3840, which is AP’s own internal caliber 3126, but also with a timing module. AP also used the F. Piguet 1185 movement (now Blancpain 1185, because F. Piguet has been included in Blancpain), which is an integrated ultra-thin chronograph movement, but it is also not a self-produced movement.
However, this year, the Associated Press created a new version of the Royal Oak Offshore, all using internal movements. The watch has a 42mm case with subdials at 6, 9 and 12 and the date at 3 (the layout of the original model in 1993), or a 43mm case with 3, 6, 9 subdials layout, and 4:30 The date. The 43mm model uses the 4401 chronograph movement first introduced in the Code 11.59 chronograph. The 42mm model uses the 4404, which is basically 4401, but has been reconfigured to support the subdial and date layout of the original Offshore model.
Seen next to one of the models from the 1990s-in this case, with reference to 25721SA, from 1999-the design changes are obvious. In addition to the changes in the dial layout, the modern 43mm version has more straight buttons, and perhaps most notably, the date window does not have a cyclops (although the position of the 4:30 window just indicates that Offshore is ready as always in controversy) .
However, as far as the display of the new movement is concerned, the most significant difference may be the dateless Cyclops. Due to the modular structure, the modular Royal Oak needs a magnifying glass to display the date. The date wheel is located on the basic movement. If you put the chronograph module on top, you will end up seeing the date wheel quite far behind the dial. This year’s 42mm model retains the magnifying glass, but since the movement is an integrated chronograph, you don’t actually need it (although you can make the same argument for any Rolex watch with a dated Cyclops).
Two-tone reference. By the way, the 25721SA shown above is an interesting example of how complicated the history of offshore 25 years is. This particular watch belonged to a friend and watch lover and was purchased by his father in 1999 (he is 6 feet 3 inches tall and obviously happy to finally find a watch large enough to accommodate his large frame). It is said that there are only four known references on the market, and he more or less forgot it until he found it behind his closet a few weeks ago. The bezel is rose gold.
I find it extremely fascinating, but then again, when I finally got a 36mm gold Rolex Day-Date (because my friends and family never tire of reminding me, it is the ultimate grumpy old man watch), no doubt, Reference 25721SA is a powerful 90s watch. There is no doubt that as the 2000s slowly entered the 2010s and 2020s, the existence of the modular chronograph movement in AP watches seems to be more and more inappropriate. The history of AP is the most famous complexity of all fine watchmaking One of the functional manufacturers. Almost since the release of the 4401 movement, AP observers have been waiting for the movement to launch other watches besides the Code 11.59 chronograph.
The new 43mm Royal Oak is one of the two options provided by the 4401/4404, which is certainly more modern in appearance and feel. Of course, this is due to the design. Although it took 25 years, the new movement is a very welcome update to the design. At least for me, its raging weight is always slightly disappointed by the use of modular movements. With a diameter of 32 mm and a thickness of 6.8 mm, the movement definitely feels more suitable for a timepiece that is still quite large and eye-catching.
In addition to looking very fit through the back of the display, the new movement also has an overall design and layout that is very suitable for 43mm Offshore. It is clearly intended to impress the wearer, because it is a modern movement, not a nostalgic movement of watches. At this point, it was very successful.
As we discussed in the hands-on practice of the Code 11.59 chronograph, the modernity of the movement is not just superficial. This is a vertical clutch design with a 70-hour power reserve, a guide column wheel tooth profile designed to minimize friction, ceramic bearings on the rotor, and a single integrated reset hammer. There is a balance bridge instead of a balance splint, and the balance is a free spring, adjustable mass type. Fake watch for sale
Although the 42mm model may be more biased towards purists’ view of Offshore’s internal movement, I really like how the 43mm model really leans towards its more advanced design, and I give it a little edge on the 42mm model Used to maintain the original configuration of the 4401 movement, not to change it as a tribute.
The three watches shown here all have black steel dials and titanium with blue or gray dials. Titanium models make Offshore’s weight impact as low as Offshore-they are very comfortable-but the steel models with black ceramic bezels have something very beautiful, because there is no additional quality penalty for the bracelet, this may be me s Choice. After all, what is an offshore company with no weight?
For first impressions and full specifications, please refer to Jon Bues’ introductory post. The current price is: titanium gray dial; blue dial titanium; black dial stainless steel. All three models are equipped with self-made automatic chronograph 4401 type movement, flyback chronograph with time and date, small seconds. Power reserve of 70 hours, automatic winding, running at 28,800 vph, inlaid with 40 jewels. Royal Oak Offshore
Due to the laws of physics, a perfect black surface is almost impossible, but this does not mean that scientists have not done their best to make the darkest surface ever made a reality. Review replica watches
I briefly discussed this before in “Design Discussion on Contrast and Texture: How Vantablack and Other Technologies Break Watch Specifications”: Over the past few decades, multiple methods have been used to create the darkest surfaces.
In the early 1980s, the use of chemically etched nickel-phosphorus alloys began to be studied, and around 2002, researchers at the British National Physical Laboratory finally created a surface that only reflected 0.35% of light. They call it super black.
The record lasted for seven years, until the nanotube-based Vantablack coating developed by Surrey NanoSystems reflected only 0.035% of the light, ten times that of Super Black. Then, a few years later, Surrey Nanosystems defeated its own material with a modified Vantablack that reflected so little light that the sensor could not even pick it up. This material is almost as “black” as possible, but at a price-both visually and literally.
To create the darkest surface in human history, special equipment is required beyond what most laboratories can provide. By using an improved form of chemical vapor deposition (CVD), carbon nanotubes are “grown” in a special reactor at 450°C that uses a plasma arc to help create vertically aligned and very close samples.
There are 1 billion carbon nanotubes in 1 square centimeter of Vantablack. The cost of buying a sample that is only 40 mm (about 1.5 inches) square is 350 Euros. Although the sample is very impact-resistant and heat-resistant, it can be easily damaged if only touched with fingers.
But there are bigger problems.
One of them is that Vantablack is a controlled export material, and it is not easy to obtain samples only by obtaining a license (there is a formal “public personal export license” letter for record). cheap watches Price
Another problem is that if you have an actual application to use Vantablack, it needs to make the material that will not melt or deform at the temperature of the application fit the actual machine, and the application must be a certain kind of Moving. once
Therefore, even experimenting with the darkest black is not a scientific feat, and it is more difficult to find applications (whether practical or not) in our daily lives.
Moreover, watchmakers and other talented craftsmen have tried for hundreds of years to create a deep black: polished.
Black polished
Okay, not just polishing. In fact, this is a special polishing technique called many names: mirror polishing, block polishing, cross stitch polishing and flat polishing.
But the most commonly used name is black polish. The name is so named because when the polished component is at an angle to the light, it will show a perfect black reflection, because no light is reflected on the viewer’s eyes. Tiny scratches or blemishes are found because it will “glow”.
Many watchmakers and brands use this type of polishing on parts such as screws, studs, or swan neck adjusters, but some brands put more effort into larger and more difficult parts.
Based on the timepieces seen at Baselworld 2018, I can safely say that the best in the black polishing industry is Greubel Forsey (no real surprises), and the quad tourbillon blue is all the evidence you need .
Black polished to a new level
The Four-Body Tourbillon Blue in Gaupe Fortunes is a four-part tourbillon in two 2018 editions, a very sophisticated and popular watch from the brand that has illustrated Gaupe Fortunes’ incredible skills and expertise. The design direction of the latest version is slightly different, and the blue dial is the real achievement.
Koppelfors is well known for its exquisite finishing and is widely praised for achieving some-if not-the best in the industry. Every component is perfect, and no dust or tiny scratches are found in the Greubel Forsey timepiece.
Greubel Forsey (fake Greubel Forsey) even used a very difficult black polishing process on many parts, some of which are quite large, such as the tourbillon bridge on the invention 1 or the balance bridge on the signature 1.
However, compared to the new quadruple tourbillon blue, these components are baby, because its entire dial is black polished. The flawless perfect surface is absolutely spotless, which is absolutely unbelievable, not to mention that the dial is also composed of six separate parts, all of which are also perfectly black polished.
If that’s not enough, the dial is actually made of gold (rather than the more common metal polished in black: steel) and then chemical vapor deposition (CVD) coating to create an amazing blue.
You may know something about component polishing and then say “Wow, that’s impressive.” But if you really know how complicated and difficult black polishing can be, then the vast land will suddenly become the Sistine Chapel.
With the development of technology, black polishing is very simple. You need to use finer and finer abrasives and perfectly flat surfaces, and carefully polish the parts until you get a mirror effect. However, this simple explanation conceals the very delicate and experienced touch required to achieve such a surface treatment, as well as the difficulty of polishing such a large surface.
Achieving perfect black finish on components is not only a question of patience (patience is important, but it is not the only problem), but to a large extent it is a matter of contact. As I heard multiple watchmakers repeat it: either it can be done or it cannot be done.
After some polishing, you can slowly grind all the abrasives and finally get a good polished surface. But when using black polishing, you must maintain a perfectly flat surface and polish it smoothly at the same time, so that you can’t see any blemishes or tiny scratches.
Excessive force, too slow or too fast, the abrasive mixture is too wet or too dry, there is only a small piece of abrasive of different sizes in the mixture, all of which may be introduced and damage the small scratches or uneven surfaces.
Larger means more room for defects
But why should it be ruined? Why can’t you just start over with a more aggressive abrasive and then start again?
This is usually not an option, because the components have strict tolerances on thickness, flatness, and right angle, so too much polishing can cause the components to be unusable due to dimensional errors. The parts are no longer suitable, so only a moderate amount of polishing is difficult enough, let alone an absolutely perfect polishing of a piece of the entire watch size.
The blue dial on the quadruple tourbillon blue is a superb technique, a model of superb technique in practice. The tiny screw head hidden at the back of the movement is very small or too small, you need to use a magnifying glass to see it is completely different from the entire front of the watch, so you will see it every day when you wear it.
There is a perfect black polished surface of nearly 40 mm for everyone to watch. No matter how small, the scratches here will be obvious flaws on a “blank” blue ocean.
In this way, the execution on Greubel Forsey’s arena is eye-catching and worth mentioning. Thanks to the CVD coated gold, the blue glows at right angles, but disappears as a pure black reflection in the other direction. If the ambient light is bright enough, you can see a faint blue hue, but the strong black polishing will try to hide it from a certain angle.
This is what makes this work stand out, showing that Greubel Forsey is not afraid of challenges. Most people think that even creating an incredible four tourbillon is a major achievement, but no one knows that this brand can win the crown.
Of course, looking at the entire watch, there are many things to impress you. The design of the tourbillon enables multi-axis rotation. The design of the numbers and instructions is more concise and modern; the barrel-shaped polished tourbillon bridge; the expected perfect finish of the entire movement (front and back). All these details make an amazing timepiece.
But the black polished gold dial (provided by titanium oxide CVD) painted in a stunning blue is the champion of this watch. The dial is made of three layers and six pieces, a breathtaking victory, and interestingly, if the observer does not know that it is black polished gold, it is still underestimated.
Dealing with this piece is really the key to making a deal: the moment you turn the watch correctly and change the dial from such a shiny blue to dark black is the moment you realize that you are holding something special.
This watch is excellent and helps remind high-end watch lovers that Greubel Forsey will pursue perfection.
Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Blue is a groundbreaking work whose composition almost eclipses the entire watch (almost impossible in Greubel Forsey). I can say with certainty that it takes a lot of effort to create such a perfectly sized black polished dial, which means that you won’t find it in every model next year, so it will be worthwhile to spend some time searching for this dial.
Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Blue
Case: 43.5 x 16.11 mm, platinum or 5N red gold
Movement: Manually wound GF Quadruple Tourbillon with Quadruple Tourbillon
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds; power reserve
